Ballathie Country House Hotel and Estate is one of several statuesque properties that nestle amongst the fertile, rolling hills of Perthshire. This area of Scotland, not too far from Glasgow or Edinburgh and their international airports, is popular not only with walkers and those enjoying the beauty of the countryside, but also with field sports lovers.
The River Tay and many game estates pepper the area. Ballathie sits at the epicentre of this activity, with its own stretch of the river for anglers, and many guests enjoying the shooting here and at nearby estates including the royal trio of Scone, Athol and Glamis. But my interest, as always, is in Ballathie’s food credentials, and it does rather well with chef Scott Scorer, ex-Gleneagles, in charge since 2012.
Rooms and the region
Ballathie lies within a substantial estate with its own stalking beat and hundreds of hectares of arable farming. It is peaceful and secluded, and yet with 41 rooms it is large enough to cater for corporate and banqueting events. Formerly home to textile tycoon Sir Stewart Coates of Paisley, the house was built in 1880 and converted to a hotel in 1972. It remained in private hands until very recently, when IMR Hotels took over the property, promising substantial investment for much needed renovation.
The ‘Master’ room I stayed in was in the main house. It was comfortable rather than luxurious and was showing its age in some key areas. Then again, current prices reflect that, and whilst furniture is a mix of antique pieces and more functional fitments, beds are large and cosy and there was copious hot water in the bathrooms. Ballathie is a great place to relax and unwind, kicking off your walking boots and having a drink in the fire-lit lounge before dinner. The clean and comfortable classic rooms will appeal to all except those expecting the grandest 5* experience. I have not stayed in other rooms that are sited in buildings a short walk from the main house.
The restaurant
On both nights of my visit the hotel was full and the dining room busy. Scott Scorer and his team coped well, as did the welcoming and friendly front of house staff. Ballathie currently has two AA rosettes, and on the evidence of my meals, it is well deserved. The wine list has enough interest for all, with some more mature bottles on offer.
‘Scotland’s larder’ is a bit of cliché I know, but that’s exactly what the lush countryside of Perthshire offers, with venison and game birds from the nearby estates, trout and salmon from the Tay, prime beef and lamb from pastureland and soft fruits and veg in abundance. Ballathie has its own small kitchen garden with home-grown herbs and vegetables too.
Dinner consists of three courses plus an amuse bouche and particularly good bread and butter, including a house-smoked butter. Coffee and petit fours are an extra, but at £70 dinner represents terrific value given the care and quality in choosing and cooking prime ingredients. One the best dishes of two excellent meals was a plump, beautifully seared scallop, served on a little pillar of coarse terrine, with studs of black pudding.
Another was sea trout. A really meaty slice of fish was beautifully cooked, the skin crisp, the flesh moist and melting. This came with confit fennel and braised pak choi, a fennel marmalade and a brilliantly conceived little bowl of mussel and nduja chowder, dark and delicious.
A word for desserts too: highlight for me and apple crumble soufflé: a marriage as delightful as it sounds, with a pillowy soufflé full of apple flavour and topped with a sprinkle of crumble, a jug of creme Anglaise and quenelle of clotted cream ice cream to the side. Thankfully, the proportions of each where right, in a fabulous and light dish to end the meal as we made our way through to the bar to take coffee.
The low down
Scotland is graced with many excellent country house hotels, many of which have excellent kitchens. In super-luxurious hideaways like Isle of Eriska or Inverlochy Castle that comes at a significant price. At Ballathie, off-season rates can be £250 for a comfortable room, dinner and an excellent and substantial breakfast for two.
But hotels are about more than price: the Ballathie team is doing a wonderful job of welcoming guests into a real home from home atmosphere, and both Chef Scott Scorer and Food & Beverage Manager Jalal Al-Ibrahimi are clearly ambitious and detail-driven in offering a food and wine experience of the highest order. On our second morning we took a stroll down to the Tay and explored some of the extensive grounds, reflecting on the fact that Ballathie is well worth foodie consideration for a Perthshire break. Once renovations are completed the luxury will be restored and obviously prices must rise, but I do hope the calm and relaxed ethos of Ballathie remains.
Ballathie House Hotel
Kinclaven
Stanley
Perthshire
PH1 4QN
+44 (0) 1250 883268