Based in the inland village of Paderene, I visited several restaurants on this trip late in 2023.
All reviews from 2023.
Tavira: A Ver Tavira, Calçada da Galeria, Largo Abu-Otmane 13
The one-star Michelin A Ver Tavira in the beautiful town of Tavira provided an outstanding meal from beginning to. At lunch there’s a choice of menus from 85 Euros to 160 Euros. As our one splurge of this trip, we went for the seven course, top price option and were extremely glad we did. Having noted neither of us can eat oysters, the chef so cleverly prepared an ‘oyster’ fashioned out of crisp potato skin, filled with a tangy, limey concoction that for all the world pressed all the same buttons as a briny oyster. Other appetisers before the menu proper included Sarrajao, a member of the tuna family, thin sliced in a wonderfully vibrant broth of green apple and ginger. A delicate portion of red snapper came over a silky, oily mashed potato, and cod sat in a small bowl of migas – a Portuguese staple of a bread and vegetable soup, on top of which was tuille disc fashioned from green cabbage. The advice was to smash the tuille into the bowl and enjoy all the flavours together. It was sensational, but then so was shrimp with mango and radish, Galician beef fillet from Tras-os-Montes and both desserts, a lovely cleansing glass of yoghurt spiced with ras-el-hanout, then a beautifully dark and dense ring of souffle-light ganache served with fig tree milk. We drank glasses of the excellent sparkling Gouveio from Vertice, a bottle of simply magnificent white ‘Pessoal’ 2015 from Alves de Sousa at 80 Euros, and at with the beef, glasses of the terrific 2014 red from Julien Reynolds in the Alentejo. This was not a cheap lunch, but it was an unusually good one.
Paderne: O Lagar, Estrada N270 5N
This café on the main road doesn’t look like much from the outside – like any other roadside café fit for a cold beer or glass of cola. But adjoining it is a large restaurant where the food is of decent quality. It’s a rather featureless big space, but the owners have invested in decent quality, furnishings and tableware. There’s also some ambition in the kitchen, some of which is possibly a bit misdirected, but which doesn’t stop the food being tasty, well cooked and served in generous portions. Witness my starter of large, succulent prawns that had been grilled perfectly. Across the top was a scattering of gnocchi, a Thai-style sweet chilli sauce and a copious salad. A confusion of influences on one plate, but did I mention it was tasty, well cooked and generous? My main of tenderloin of pork was also deliciously moist with a decent sear on the outside too. With three large bottles of sparkling water (it was 38c that day), a bottle of Solheiro Alvarinho and espressos to finish, the bill came to just 82 Euros.
Near Paderne: Mato a Vista, Cabanita CP221P, Estr. do Foral
SatNav essential to find it, Mato a Vista sits a long way up a single-track road among orange groves. This is a surprisingly smart, large ‘rustic fine dining’ restaurant with a broad, shady terrace. It’s much more expensive than somewhere like O Alagar, but there are obvious reasons for that. I’ll confess, it did feel as though there was a bit of ‘upselling’ going on, but the food was good. I had a local goat’s cheese, bread-crumbed and lightly grilled, served with honey dressing, walnuts and croutons. For mains, that fish counter did tempt us, so we shared a whole bream (103 Euros) that I have to say was magnificent. Served simply with salty, wrinkly potatoes and a selection of vegetables, it was as good a bit of fish as I’ve had for quite some time. We drank a bottle of Niepoort Redoma Branco, had two bottles of fizzy water, and espressos, for a final bill of 180 Euros before service. The car park here was full of Teslas, Porsches, and Volvos, even though it is way out in the middle of nowhere, so obviously a destination for wealthier locals too. I’d certainly return.
Near Paderne: Paraiso do Algarve, Estr. do Foral 8200-461
Sunday lunch on a roasting hot day saw the large shady terrace completely empty, but inside Portuguese families enjoyed the air-conditioning and first class, honest and traditional cuisine. A word for the staff too, who were very welcoming, and for the wine list, which is extensive. Nibbling on some bread with fresh goat’s cheese, I decided on garlic prawns to begin, and they were great – eight or nine plump and juicy prawns in the richest olive oil and garlic infusion, made for mopping up with bread. My main was just so full of flavour and again, wonderfully cooked and seasoned: a traditional bowl of pork and clams, with heroic amounts of both in a rich broth. Possibly my single favourite dish of the trip. This was served with a fresh tomato salad and a bowl of French fries, clearly just made. We drank a bottle of Redoma rosado (22 Euros) and finished with particularly good house made desserts, mine a creamy tiramisu-like concoction. With two bottles of San Pelegrino and coffees to finish, a final bill of 104 Euros was such excellent value. Unpretentious and seriously good cooking in pleasant surroundings.
Near Paderne: Xerém, Estrada Ferreiras-Paderne, 264-A
Xerém is named after a Portuguese staple, similar to polenta, which is a fine porridge to which it is essential to add lots of flavouring – herbs, olive oil, etc. It does feature extensively but certainly not exclusively here. Omens were good for a spacious, quite funky restaurant with chilled music playing and an open kitchen, the chef straight from hipster central – tattoos, big beard, flat cap, the lot. Our friendly waiter explained things in loving detail; how breads and butters were made in-house, how all ingredients were sourced locally, etc. The bread and butter were good, but sadly beyond that nothing really hit the spot for me. A prawn starter was a mean portion – half the portion I’d enjoyed at O Alagar, not as good, and twice the price. My main course of “almond crusted salmon” was a trades description act complaint waiting to happen. What arrived was a biggish slice of salmon fillet with a tiny sprinkle of sliced raw almond at one end. Crusted it was not, and it was barely cooked – borderline ‘send it back.’ An incongruously huge mound of rice, black with squid ink, was the only other thing on the plate. My partner’s different choices didn’t go down too well either. We drank a bottle of Branco from Heredade Grous but passed on desserts and coffees. It was not at all expensive – little more than 100 Euros for the wine, two courses, two bottles of water and the bread, but I wouldn’t return.
Boliqueme: O Lavrador, Rua de Tenoca
This was a traditional Portuguese restaurant that I’d eaten in a few times on previous visits. It was never going to set the heather or fire, but it was reliable. New English owners took over since my last visit, though their pitch was slightly confusing – claiming to be ‘fine dining’ yet also hosting ‘Fish and Chip Fridays’ and ‘Traditional Sunday Roast’ lunches. Nevertheless, we gave it a go one Wednesday night and the experience was mixed but overall, just, positive. Service was slightly manic at times and food-wise there were highs and confusing lows. Good bread was served with a delicious tuna pate, then I chose the twice-baked soufflé. It had the requisite creaminess and luxury, yet it was also quite tasteless: some much stronger cheese would have worked wonders. Next, venison fillet was excellent: well-cooked and served sliced on the plate with enough searing round the edges. It was, however, almost stone cold and served on a cold plate. Also: oven chips? That’s not fine dining. Desserts were passable if unremarkable. We drank glasses of an OK house white and a good bottle of Alentejo red at 24 Euros. With coffees (again lukewarm) the bill came to 130 Euros for two before service.
Vilamoura/Quarteira: La Villa, Volta do Anzol
Having decided to visit Vilamoura for the day I searched for somewhere for lunch and this place popped up with a string of recommendations. A French-owned and run restaurant situated within an urbanization just on the edge of Vilamoura, it’s not the sort of place you would stumble across, but I am very glad we did. On a shady terrace the service was charming and efficient. No menus here, with everything chalked on blackboards, the amount of rubbing out and re-writing suggesting things change regularly. Remarkably, a three-course menu costs just 20 Euros, with many choices at each course and some excellent ingredients. My grilled asparagus salad came topped with slices of hard goat’s cheese, but the generous bed of roasted vegetables – fennel, chicory, sun-dried tomato, aubergine – was fabulously tasty with its piquant dressing. My main of pork fillet came as five delectable cylinders of charry meat, with a dipping sauce and plenty of salad, and a side of unctuous gratin dauphinoise. With this we drank a fine Provençal-style rose from Quinta do Lemos. The choice of desserts included peach melba, tarts and a grande dessert, but I settled for a couple of scoops of good ice cream. With fizzy water and coffees, a bill of 74 Euros was crazily excellent value for an honest and delicious lunch.
Ferragudo: Borda Do Cais, Rua Infante Santo 75
A day trip along to Ferragudo, a fishing village just across the river from the large resort area of Portimão. Right on the harbour, we stumbled across this large and popular restaurant attracted by the food that people sitting on the terrace were enjoying. Smart service and a cheery welcome set the tone for quality local dishes, centred around fish and seafood. After some bread, olives, and goat’s cheese to nibble with a glass or two of Vinho Verde we shared a whole sea bream. It was expertly cooked then filleted tableside and served with accompaniments of boiled wrinkly potatoes and mundane mixed veg. But no complaints whatsoever with the impromptu lunch, or the bill of just over 110 Euros including water and coffees.