Restaurants: Scotland west

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Glasgow City Centre

Chardon D’Or 176 West Regent Street. G2 4RL. Phone 0141 248 3801
Brian Maule has been behind the stoves at his Chardon D’Or city centre restaurant for almost a decade now. He returned to Scotland after plying his trade at some of the best kitchens in France’s gastronomic hothouse, Lyon, before many years at Le Gavroche in London where he rose to the position of head chef. His arrival back in Scotland was with some fanfare, and great expectation. The smart restaurant has grown to include private dining and meeting rooms, and courts a business crowd as well as Glasgow’s well-heeled diners from wealthy suburbs. On previous visits I did not feel totally convinced by the offering here, but my two most recent meals were excellent. A celebration tasting menu is offered at £59.95 (£52.50 for matching wine flights) but we went a la carte and after a little amuse of chicken-liver parfait, my first course of scallops was delicious and really beautifully cooked: the plate had been peppered with a smoky bacon dust, then each seared scallop placed on a little dome of creamy leeks, before being topped with more bacon dust and breadcrumb and flashed under the grill, to produce a dish of contrasting flavours and textures. For my main course, loin of lamb was succulent and tender, though the accompanying sweetbreads were just marginally over-cooked. For pudding, the kitchen turned out a seriously good apple tarte tatin, with billowing puff pastry encasing succulent chunks of apple and oozing caramel. The wine list covers the globe but emphasises France. We had the exquisite rosé Champagne from Veuve-Fourny, a delicious Vouvray Silex 2009 and perfectly à point Cabernet Sauvignon 2007 from Cape Chamonix. An altogether excellent meal came in at £270 for four. Open Monday to Friday for lunch, Monday to Saturday for dinner.

Gamba, 225a West George St, Glasgow. Phone 0141 572 0899
Gamba has had the same owner/chef/manager combination since it opened its casual, basement dining room in 1998. The focus remains on all things aquatic, featuring dishes that major on quality ingredients in imaginative combinations, with accents borrowed from oriental cuisine. I started with sashimi of ultra-fresh salmon, swordfish and scallops with traditional soy dipping sauce, pickled ginger and eye-watering wasabi. I chose the daily “special” main course: seared turbot in a seafood, herb and cream stew. An abundance of mussels and small langoustines supported a healthy portion of well-cooked fish. A side dish of potatoes, carrots and asparagus was delicious, but probably unecessary unless catering for a typically hungry Glaswegian clientèle. Our waitress recommended the banana and coconut cheesecake for pudding: desserts at Gamba are no afterthought, and this was delicious, with a gloopy hot maple syrup sauce. Made to order coffee is served with Scottish tablet. The staff at Gamba are young, knowledgeable and friendly, and the casual but smart dining room is one of the best in the city. The wine list is moderately marked up too: we drank a gorgeously mature, off-dry Gruner Veltliner Smaragd from Freie Weingartner Wachau. Set menu £45, cheaper lunch and pre-theatre. Closed Sunday.

Cafe Gandolfi, Albion St, Glasgow. Phone: 0141 552 6813
A Glasgow institution amongst the arty set. Furnished with the extraordinary tables and chairs of Tim Steadman and magical stained glass of my friend John Clark. This cool and airy Café has brilliant coffee, home baked scones and tea-breads, a terrific range of snacks and sandwiches and, in the evenings, a selection of interesting and exciting dishes – an eclectic mix: pacific-rim meets Paris bistro meets traditional Scotland. The short but very well chosen wine list always has something to delight. One of my favourite casual places for a coffee, a drink, or an early/late meal. (2016) £40 for lunch for two, £60 for dinner. Open 7 days ’till late.

India Quay, 181 Finnieston St, Glasgow Tel: 0141 221 1616
Since the 1950s an influx of Indian and Pakistani settlers has added to the vibrant cultural life of the city, including its food. India Quay may follow in a long tradition, but forget notions of flock wallpaper and sitar muzak: this is an urban and stylish setting, part of Glasgow’s regenerated waterfront affording terrific views of some of the most iconic modern architecture in Glasgow. India Quay’s food is much more conventional in many ways, and hits all the right notes for Glasgow’s curry connoisseurs. We settled into a booth and nibbled on a stack of crisp poppadoms whilst we perused the menu. We started with vegetable pakora and king prawns in a creamy garlic sauce. The pakora – little deep fried balls of batter infused with potato, onion, cauliflower and spinach leaves – were superb, very light and crisp and served with a salad and spicy sauce. The prawns were plump, delicious and perfectly cooked too, thought the sauce was perhaps a little too creamy for my tastes. Onto the main events, the highlight of which was one of the daily specials, a terrific dish of very slow braised lamb (I chose meltingly soft off-the-bone meat, though it is offered on the bone too). The semi-dry sauce had a real kick and was flavoured with finely chopped onion, mushroom and pepper and accompanied by a salad of onion, cucumber, coriander and chives. Though we drank beer, India Quay has a decent little wine list of around 30 bins. Two could dine well here for £60.

Red Onion, 27 West Campbell St, G2 4SQ. Tel: 0141 221 6000
John Quigley is the chef/patron behind this casual, trendy restaurant in the city centre. Quigley is a bit of a ‘celebrity chef’, as after a career in the kitchen’s of London’s west end, he travelled the world as a private chef to rock stars including Bryan Adams, Tina Turner and The Bee Gees. Having settled back in his native Glasgow, Red Onion is open every day for lunch and dinner. It is a large, chic dining room with exposed stone walls and polished wooden floors. Food is contemporary and pretty much globe-trotting as you might expect. A baked goat’s cheese crotin was nicely soft on the inside, served doused in a dressing of toasted almond and balsamic vinaigrette. The French-influenced braised shin of beef was very nicely cooked, falling apart under the threat of a fork, and served with champ potatoes and a rich red wine jus. Pudding was a good effort too, a lemon tart that had been glazed and brâlléed on top, served with poached apricots and Greek yoghurt laced with honey. Red Onion is not pitched at fans of refined Michelin-starred cuisine, but a more casual, laid back crowd that nevertheless appreciate good food and smart surroundings. Modest prices extend to the well-chosen wine list. Dinner around £30-£35 for three courses. Open every day for lunch and dinner.

Glasgow West End

Cail Bruich, 725 Great Western Rd, G12 8QX. Phone: 0141 334 6265
I have eating at this restaurant close to my home for many years, and watched as the Charalambous family, running kitchen and dining room, invested huge time, money and talent to create the city’s finest restaurant. Having handed over the role of head chef to Lorna McNee (ex-Andrew Fairlie) in 2020, a Michelin star soon followed and was richly deserved. I have not made it back since Lorna took over, having been living away from Glasgow during the various ins and outs of lockdown, but intend to put that right as soon as possible. This review dates from late 2019. Ingredients are not only beautifully sourced (Devon snails, Gigha halibit, Tarbert crab) but imaginatively combined. Presentation has been pared to terrific, aesthetic simplicity too. My hand-dived Tarbert scallops and langoustine came in a piquant, light and foamy shellfish bisque flavoured with saffron, citrus and a touch of curry giving incisive but not overpowering flavours to match the sweet, succulent flesh of the shellfish. A fine tranche of hillside Inverurie lamb was cooked with sweetbreads and a lovely stew of broadbeans, lettuce and peas, again powerful flavours but with subtlety too. Desserts don’t disappoint either, most recently a vanilla and meadowsweet crème, just lightly set and delicious, like panacotta’s celestial twin, with a tart but sweet poached rhubarb, strawberry and pink peppercorn soup. Home made petit fours and fresh mint tea rounded off another brilliantly accomplished meal from this young chef, whilst the front of house team work the simple, but comfortable dining room with smiling, quite efficiency. The wine list is good and improving all the time, with plenty of wines available by the glass starting at around £10, and a growing emphasis on natural wines. Truly one of the city’s top culinary experiences. Around £225 for two at dinner if drinking modestly, though on Fridays and Saturday evening only a £105 per person tasting menu is on offer. Closed Sundays and Mondays.


Unalome by Graeme Cheevers, 36 Kelvingrove St, G3 7RZ. Phone: 0141 501 0553
Having gained a Michelin starred restaurant for the first time in many years in Cail Bruich, along comes this very strong newcomer in 2021. I predict a star will come soon for Glaswegian-born Graeme Cheevers, whose track record is exemplary. He branches out on his own after winning a Michelin star as head chef at the Isle of Eriska hotel, but before that worked in many top kitchens, including Tom Keller’s 3* Per Se in New York. Unalome is a contemporary space within a traditional sandstone building on the edge of the city’s West End. The open kitchen dominates one side of the room. The welcome here is warm, friendly and unpretentious, and as we sipped on Champagne (Charles Heidsieck Brut NV at £80 per bottle) a procession of fabulous little amuses arrived, perhaps seven or eight in several flights, including fascinating savoury canalé and light-as-a-feather meringues filled with a salmon mousse. We opted for the tasting menu at £90 per person for six courses, plus coffee and petit-fours. A bowl of white crab meat from Loch Fyne came with a seaweed custard – just as it sounds, a soulful and comforting creamy custard but savoury and salty, sparked with little finger limes and truffle. One of the other highlights for me were Orkney scallops, seared to a caramel on the outside but slicing like butter, with peas, a lavender butter sauce and the very clever addition of a transluscent slice of lardo – cured pork fat – which added an extra layer of unexpected texture and richness. Halibut from Gigha was also exceptional and beautifully cooked, an umami-rich Vin Jaune sauce working so well with it.

Vying for the best dish of a memorable meal was Kobe wagyu beef, seared, possibly finished in the oven, and served with slices of black truffle on a wonderfully earthy risotto. I’ve eaten wagyu before and never quite got what was so special about it, but this told the whole story, one melting mouthful after another. Dessert was thankfully light, lemon verbana-glazed seasonal strawberries with a strawberry cream and vanilla ice cream. Coffee came with truffle-flavoured fudge (not my favourite combination), paté de fruits and chocolates. What a fabulous addition to Glasgow’s dining scene, and a good wine list too. Four of us drank Chablis 1er Cru Beauroy from Domaine de L’Enclos at £74, the fine Peter Max Pinot from Crystallum at £64, as well as glasses of Château Filhot Sauternes, all served in Zalto stemware. As well as the tasting menu, there is à la carte, and a lunch menu at £30 per person. Closed Mondays & Tuesdays.

Hotel du Vin, One Devonshire Gardens. Phone: 0141 339 2001
The Hotel du Vin in Glasgow’s leafy West End is composed of an entire terrace of beautiful Victorian town houses that have been modernised and refurbished to offer five-star accommodation. The hotel’s restaurant has a chequered history, but almost always bound-up with haute-cuisine. This is the site where Andrew Fairlie of Gleneagles cut his teeth as head chef, and where Gordon Ramsay based his 1* Amaryllis restaurant until 2004. Post-Ramsay, there followed an unsettled period before Hotel du Vin moved in in 2006 and launched their bistro. Initial experiences were extremely good, but over the course of several visits I felt the kitchen slightly lost its way. However, returning after a considerable absence in early summer 2017 my meal was really very good. With a tasty confit of rabbit, a glass of Languedoc Viognier matched beautifully, the highlight of the dish being arguably two little parcels of poached rabbit loin, though the whole dish was given light, shade and mouthwatering tang with cubes of Sauternes jelly, golden raisin purée and a creamy quenelle of celeriac remoulade. A little in-between course provided another stand-out dish and drink match: Alan paired a dish of hot and cold smoked Dunkeld salmon with a lovely, sour apple-sharp cider, which worked terrifically well against the fat of the salmon and the cucumber, apple and crème fraîche accompaniements. A light, but flavour-packed interlude before Châteaubriand, cooked as we’d requested, a heroic portion (which was responsible for us passing-up pudding) but easy to polish off, with very good, thick and unctuous sauce Béarnaise, a pile of  sautéed potatoes and two refreshing salads. Around £160 for dinner for two drinking modestly.

Northstar, 108 Queen Margaret Dr, Glasgow. Phone: 0141 946 5365
It is easy to miss this tiny, cramped, Bohemian little deli and restaurant tucked in amongst a row of shops in a residential corner of Glasgow’s West End. And missing it would be a great shame! Portugeuse and Mediterranean-sourced ingredients are fashioned into mouthwatering “small plates”, larger-than-tapas dishes like a chorizo and saffron risotto, or patatas bravas, each costing only a few pounds. Excellent coffee (Sical, from Portugal), a wide range of organic soft drinks, and yummy home-made cakes complete a lovely lunch for less than £15 a head.

Number 16, 16 Byres Rd, Glasgow. Phone 0141 339 2544
A tiny place at the bottom of Glasgow’s buzzing Byres Rd, this space has had a chequered, but largely very positive history as a restaurant, not least in its current incarnation. No 16 has been a favourite neighbourhood choice for years, but when it changed hands a couple of years ago I felt standards slipped, and I downgraded it from a two thumbs up, to one or maybe one and a half. Whatever has happened recently, I’ve eaten there three times in the past few months and each meal has been excellent. It still has the same mix and match furniture (take my advice and request a ground floor table with the new and rather smart leather tub chairs when booking) and the same cramped conditions, but the food is as inventive as it is well cooked. A tasty starter of seared chicken livers came in thick stew of Puy lentils, and was beautifully textured and cooked. My main course was a risotto, liberally folded with roasted sweet pepper, wild garlic and finished with creme fraiche, and parmesan. It was heartwarming stuff, and delicously creamy. A classic pudding to finish – of the sticky toffee variety – was the real thing, rich with dates and fruits, and served with home made ice-cream. The wine list has around 20 reds and whites from £16 to £35 pounds, and all in all, this is one of the nicest casual places in the city at the moment in my opinion. £75 for dinner for two, with a modest bottle. Open daily, but Sunday for lunch only.

La Parmigiana, 447 Great Western Rd, Glasgow. Phone 0141 334 0686
La Parmigiana is a real institution and typical Italian family restaurant, it has been around since the 70’s, and is one of those places were the staff never changes, and everything works with a comfortable, well-oiled precision. The menu is short and has lots of staples which never change, like lobster ravioli in a tomato cream sauce, chargrilled scallops, or medallions of venison with a porcini mushroom and Italian sausage ragu. Other seasonal items come and go, but all cooked with great skill and presented in an honest, understated fashion. This is quality Italian cuisine with a nod towards the best Scottish ingredients. There is a short, but quite serious wine list. It is exclusively Italian, presented by region, from house wines up to Sassicaia and Tignanello. The regular “wines of the month” are always interesting. We drank Silvio Jermann’s delightful Pinot Bianco at £23. La Parmigiana is a bit old-fashioned, but is none the worse for that. £75 for dinner, cheaper lunch and pre-theatre

111 By Nico, 111 Cleveden Rd, Glasgow, UK G12 0JU. Phone: 0141 334 0111
This is the latest incarnation of a restaurant space that has had several themes over the years (most recently ‘Simply Fish’), none of which have gone the distance. The location is a very suburban one, surrounded by plenty of affluent housing, but well away from the buzz of the city centre or thronging heart of the West End. So the new idea is a really good one: a ‘fine dining’ dinner is offered at a very affordable, ‘let’s eat out tonight’ price of £22 for three courses, £30 for a five course tasting menu. Both come with amuse bouches and all the posh restaurant trimmings to make one feel like its proper affordable bargain, and the food is good. Chef/proprietor Nico Simeone has also appointed young Senaglese chef Modou to head up the kitchen team as part of a ‘training academy’ aspect to the operation. Being local, I’ve eaten there half a dozen times and whilst it is a little formulaic (there’s only so much you can do for £22 for three courses), it delivers fresh, quality food of considerable style and is always packed – book ahead. Recently a main course of pheasant was really very well cooked, and looked good on the plate with a little supporting cast of blackberries, beetroot cubes and a sweet but smoky burnt onion marmalade. The wine list by contrast is fairly standard in both content and the mark-ups, but then something has to give in this formula I guess. Two will eat with a decent bottle for £70 or so. Closed Mondays.

Stravaigin, 28 Gibson St, Glasgow G12 8NX. Phone: 0141 334 2665
A little like an Aboriginal ‘Walkabout’, Stravaigin is old Scottish parlance meaning to wander, and a philosophy of travelling and crossing boundaries has always been at the heart of this operation. Stravaigin takes it food seriously, down to establishing its own small holding where many of the restaurant’s herbs and vegetables are grown. My starter was pretty resolutely European, a fricassee of duck livers and rabbit served with a truffled brioche. This was a great dish, the livers soft and buttery in creamy sauce, two perfect morsels of moist rabbit served to the side and the warm brioche perfect for mopping it all up. There was more of an Oriental influence in my main course of duck breast roasted with a Tamari glaze (a turbo-charge soy sauce) and served with a little tower of roasted yam and kimchi. The duck was beautifully cooked, and the rest of the flavours where hugely powerful – perhaps even a touch too powerful. The sweetness of the yams (roasted with sesame seeds) and the vinegary sourness of the kimchi (Korean pickled vegetables) were wonderful in their own right and with the duck, but the combination was pretty explosive in a dish with perhaps just one ingredient too many. Still, this is bold, confident and original food and far too many places manage none of those. There are some very interesting things in the wine selection of around 80 bins. It is all well-chosen, with names like Domaine A and Jean Marc Brocard in the mix and a good sprinkling of natural wine and more esoteric stuff. Stravaigin is a real survivor in Glasgow’s often quite transient restaurant scene. There’s a reason for that. Open daily for dinner (£80 for two with house wine). Lunch Thursday – Sunday. The upstairs bar serves food daily.

The Ubiquitous Chip, 12 Ashton Lane, Glasgow. Phone: 0141 334 5007
“The Chip” is a venerable linchpin of the Glasgow fine dining scene. At the helm for 30 years, owner Ronnie Clydesdale may be the father of modern Scottish cuisine, but there is still plenty to like about this operation. The Chip offers a very attractive package of food, wine and atmosphere. The verdant conservatory courtyard is still my favourite of its many dining spaces, and a great place to enjoy their terrific value Sunday lunch. An appetising little cup of cullen skink (a creamy soup, laden with chunks of smoked fish) sets the tone for a Scottish-flavoured but eclectic menu. My starter – new season carrots braised with cardamom and wrapped in spinach, served on a creamy juniper sauce – was inventive and superbly executed. The loin of herbed free-range pork was served with crunchy wok-fried pak choi, and dessert was a comforting and calorific pavlova crammed with fresh Scottish raspberries. The Chip suffers from a bit of inconsistency, and not all of the eclectic partnerships work, but with its unique atmosphere, comprehensive wine list extensive collection of single malts, it deserves its following. £80 for lunch, £1200 for dinner with a modest bottle of wine. Open 7 days.

Ayrshire

Lochgreen Hotel, Monktonhill Road, Troon. Phone: 01292 313 343
The Lochgreen hotel’s restaurant is something of a hidden gem, being part of a country house hotel near to the Ayrshire coast at Troon, that is an extremely popular wedding and function venue. Such a description would normally raise a big warning flag in my mind, as catering for large functions is often the death knell for seriously good food. But Lochgreen’s bright and comfortable fine dining restaurant is tucked away from the wedding action, and is serving excellent 3 AA rosette food, with a very good wine list, overlooking the hotel’s beautifully maintained gardens. The lunch is an absolute bargain at £24.95 at time of writing for three courses plus coffee and petit fours. Little nibbles of crisply-breadcrumbed haggis balls and parmesan biscuits with a goat’s cheese dip were served, and a couple of glasses of house Champagne slipped down a treat at only £7.50 per glass. A little amuse of a cube of cauliflower panacotta on a rich red onion marmalade was delicious too. For my first course I had roast quail, wrapped in bacon and served with braised cabbage. It was juicy and delicious, the delicate flavour of the de-boned quail melding with the salty and smoky bite of the ham. For my main course, a pithivier of lamb was lovely: an elegantly thin case of buttery puff pastry encasing a rich, dense, mound of shredded and lightly spicy lamb shoulder, served with a delicious hot salad of thin slices of new season asparagus, curly kale and broad beans. For dessert, an Early Grey sorbet packed a lot of flavour, served with a little scoop of a lemony verbena ice-cream. We drank glasses of Rioja and a bottle of sparkling water, and as we sat on one of the plump sofas in the lounge for coffee, macaroons and blackcurrant fruit jellies we considered the bill for £85 all in to be a stand-out bargain.

Argyle

Airds Hotel, Port Appin, Argyle. Phone: 01631 730236
The Allan family raised their small luxury hotel to international fame, and since they sold up, new owners Shaun and Jenny McKivragan have continued the good work with 3 AA rosettes for the restaurant. Airds sits facing the ruggedly beautiful Loch Linnhe with views from its delightful gardens to a little lighthouse and the slate-blue Morven hills beyond. The picture-postcard setting and simple whitewashed exterior belie the luxury within. Public rooms are traditional with plump sofas, books, games, the tick of grandfather clocks and a multitude of cosy corners to take tea or sip an after-dinner malt. Rooms are generally quite small but were already extremely comfortable (this is a Relais & Châteaux property) but there has been a substanial programme of upgrading to bring 21st century chic, with limestoned ‘spa’ bathrooms, falt-screen TVs, wi-fi, et al. The restaurant is very good, with an emphasis on the finest Scottish ingredients. My starter of seared breast of squab pigeon in a pastry shell, doused in wild mushrooms and with a lobe of seared foie-gras on top, was typical of two dinners studded with highlights. Baked halibut with a crab crust, came with a pungent but never over-powering herb mash. Desserts included a beautiful pistachio and chocolate soufflé, served with a jug of chocolate sauce to pour into the freshly cracked crust. Coffee and petit-fours are taken back in the cosseting tranquility of one of the lounges. Airds is a very grown-up sort of place, and whilst the welcome could not be warmer or more charming, it has a hushed atmosphere that some might describe as rather formal. I’d disagree: formality is often a state of mind, and a weekend break at Airds is one of the most relaxing and restorative ways I can think of to blow the bank balance. Room, dinner and breakfast for two starts around £260 per night off-season, £300 and up from Easter to September. ** Updated late 2021. This review is substantially from a 2019 visit, but I’m saddened to say my two most recent visits to Airds have seen the food go down a notch. The hotel remains lovely, but its disappointing that the food quality has not been maintained; it has been a big reason for my regular visits.

Isle of Eriska Hotel, Benderloch, Argyll. Phone 01631 720 371
It was a real surprise late in 2016 when it was announced that after 40 years the Buchanan-Smith family had sold Eriska to a Hong Kong-based private investor. Since then there has been considerable investment in what was already a luxurious Relais &; Châteaux property, with more promised. This review dates from just a few months before. Whilst the dinner service in this country house hotel may be formal, there is a relaxed atmosphere in the chic, contemporary  dining room, though for non-residents, prior reservations are essential. Clearly there is a chef here who keeps abreast of culinary innovation, and the kitchen garden supplies herbs and vegetables, whilst local sourcing is taken seriously. Over the course of my two dinners this kitchen rarely put a foot – or even a toe – wrong. Dinner is a table d’hote affair, with three choices at each course. Highlights for me included a brilliant and quite simple dish of grilled fillet of Sea Bass on a cassoulet of mussels, roasted peppers and young leeks. The fish was crisp-skinned, juicy and moist, the mussels plump and full of flavour and the little stew of vegetables deeply flavoured and cooked perfectly. Roasted fillet of aged Scotch beef came with a shallot jam, a brilliantly simple dish of salsify cooked in red wine and rather up-market Yorkshire pudding. Eriska’s cheese trolley is quite rightly famed, and is one of the best selections (and served in the best condition) that I have seen in Scotland. Around 40 British and French cheeses make up the selection, which can be sampled pre- or post-dessert. Puddings themselves were very good indeed, my favourite probably being a silky ginger and lemongrass panacotta, set against the contrasting texture and flavour of a little walnut cake and honey syrup. A word for the wine list too: holder of the AA notable wine list award, there is a very good choice with whites and reds starting at £20, and a Coravin system meaning there’s a good range of ‘fine wine’ by the glass. Dinner £60 per person. Open every day, dinner only.

Loch Fyne Oyster Bar, Argyle. Phone: 01499 600217
This venerable seafood venue is now a national chain, but this is where it all started. Expanded over the years, this is a large, airy and comfortable restaurant and a retail shop. As well as the oysters (which are truly delicious) a whole range of seafood and fish are the specialities, with their own smoke-house producing wonderful smoked salmon, trout, kippers, etc. The restaurant can be very busy at weekends and holiday periods, and only a limited number of reservations are accepted. My personal favourite dish is the “Bradon Rost” – a plump piece of salmon fillet, roasted in a oak-fired kiln making it tender and flaky inside, smoky and blackened outside. Prices are a bit steep, the wine list is uninspiring, and the non-fish dishes are nothing to write home about. But it’s well worth trying for the seafood (and delicious brown bread and butter). £70 lunch or dinner. Open 7 days a week lunch and dinner

Summer Isles Hotel, Achiltibuie, By Ullapool. Phone: 01854 622282
The Summer Isles kitchen had a Michelin star when presided over by chef Chris Firth-Bernard, but he departed in 2013 just a few weeks after this review. Scallops, lobster, langoustines or crab from the cold offshore waters feature nightly, along with venison and lamb from the hillsides and big brown eggs from the Irvine’s hens. Delicious breads come straight from the oven, and the 400-strong wine list runs the gamut from £15 southern French and Chilean quaffs, to trophy wines like Pétrus, Romanée-Conti and Screaming Eagle. Though there’s a certain formality about the dining room, this is a place to wear walking boots and wind-cheating clothes by day, and dress up a bit for dinner after a long soak in your over-sized bath. There’s also a busy bar at the side of the hotel, where you can rub shoulders with locals and sample the Skye Brewery’s excellent cask ales. The set, no-choice dinner is not cheap at £49, but offers good value for five course, coffee and service. One starter I particularly enjoyed on my two-night stay was a fine fish soup, creamy and light, touched with saffron, and studded with chunks of locally netted salmon, turbot and lobster. Though a haunch of Roe Deer venison was dark and delicious, it was a scintillating poached lobster that stole the main course show. This was an object lesson in simplicity, with copious, impossibly fresh meat presented with minimum intervention. Puddings and cheeses are brought round on trolleys, followed by coffee served in the lounge. By 10:30 we had the place to ourselves: all those hearty hill-walking guests had retired early. Closed November – March. Rooms from £150 per night, bed and breakfast

Dumfriesshire

Knockinaam Lodge, Portpatrick. Phone: 01776 810471
Local boy Tony Pierce took over the helm in the kitchen in 1994 and has held his Michelin star ever since. A large kitchen garden produces much of the restaurant’s herbs and vegetables, and local produce features prominently. Knockinaam offer only a set menu (though dietary requirements can be catered for) and above all else this is precise and very refined cooking with portions that are satisfying without ever being heavy – essential if you are going to dine here on three or four consecutive nights. Flavours are distinctive yet subtle. Really, the kitchen barely put a foot wrong over our three nights. Highlights included a perfect little roast fillet of line-caught sea bass with a potato crust and beurre noisette. The delicacy of the fish was matched by the delicacy of the crust, just adding a faint textural crunch and extra element of buttery flavour. Little soups are served between starter and main, my favourite being a frothy “cappuccino” of pea, pear and mint, where the sweet fleshy bite of little cubes of pear added an unexpected dimension. Local ingredients took centre stage for the main course on both nights, and cannon of Galloway lamb with a shallot puree was wonderful, but then I loved the playful accompaniments to the paupiettes of roast free-range chicken and seasonal green asparagus; a garlic mousse and little garlic beignets. We shared the excellent cheese plate on both evenings before pud: hot passionfruit soufflé with its own sorbet was outstanding, but then a warm and gooey chocolate soufflé pudding with sour cherry ice cream would win many fans too.The lovely thing about staying for a couple of nights in such a place is that the entire wine list opens up for you too: even if you don’t feel like a whole bottle of red to finish that cheese or bottle of dessert wine to accompany dessert, the restaurant will happily hold on to what you do not drink for tomorrow. And the list here is good, with 450 bins running from house wines at £22, to many vintages of top growths. Prices are keen for those looking to splash out towards the top of the list, whilst less mainstream choices still show a genuine wine interest. We enjoyed the Pintas Character from the Douro for £70 amongst others. Fantastic. Dinner is £75 per person.