03-12-2007 – weekly press roundup

week beginning 03/12/2007

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the Times – Jane MacQuitty

2005 Bourgogne Cuvée Oligocène, P Javillier, Lay & Wheeler £14.50

utterly gorgeous, smoky; rich, creamy, faintly honeyed chardonnay

2005 Ladoix 1er Cru, Le Clou d’Orge, Domaine Chevalier Majest £14.99

delicious, beefy scent; gamey, creosote and sandalwood-spiked palate

2004 Le Soula, Gérard Gauby, A&B Vintners, £18.70; BBR, £19.75

sumptuous, spicy, pineapple and sweet hazelnut-oak scented

2000 Silberberg de Rorschwihr Riesling, Rolly Gassmann, Wine Soc £16

mouthwateringly intense, mature, spritzy, floral spice and verdant flavours

2004 Auxey-Duresses, Vieilles Vignes, Prunier-Bonheur, Loeb, £18.12.

seductive, violet-scented bouquet and fat, ripe, spicy, cabbagey palate

2005 Chablis Premier Cru, Quintessence , Brocard, Tesco £14.99.

light, sappy, steely style, with a long, lingering minerally finish

2002 Pinot Gris Hengst, Wunsch et Mann, Mckinley £13.99; Halemere £13.50

grand, fat, silky, lychee-laden; sweetness will offset rich, spicy dishes

2005 Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chaumées, Jouard, Ripley £19.75 by case

fine, big food-suitable white burgundy

2005 Meursault Le Limozin Jobard-Chabloz, Lea & Sademan £19.95 on offer

delicate wine is lots of light, leafy style

2003 Le Soula Gérard Gauby, A&B Cintners £19.60; BBR £19.75

heaves with distinguished, fat, bold, spicy, mulberry-stashed

1999 Beaune Clos du Roi, 1er Cru, Domaine Rapet Ripley £15.50

delicious fat, ripe, spicy, truffley, almost chocolatey fruit

2003 Château Tronquoy-Lalande, Saint Estèphe, Tesco £12.99.

fat, tasty, chocolatey, almost gamey character

1998 Clos des Amandiers, Pomerol, Cprney & Barrow £16.

lovely, ripe, sweet, aged, gamey, truffle and creosote-laden claret

1998 Château Potensac, Médoc, Tanners £18.80.

ripe, silky, cedary claret which will impress all if you pour it on Christmas Day

2005 Saint Joseph, Domaine Georges Vernay, Yapp Bros £15.95.

oodles of peppery, spicy, herby fruit, this one’s a winner

2002 Brunello di Montalcino, Sesti, Castello di Argiano Tanners £19.95

delicious, fat, beefy, savoury, ready-to-drink spice

2005 Gigondas, Terrasses des Safres, Perrin, M&S £14.99.

plenty of lively, yet strong, herby fruit

2003 Costasera Amarone, Masi, Tesco, Wimbledon £19.99; Oddbins £21.99

beefy and perfumed; fine, sweet, savoury, leafy, leathery spice

the Sunday Times – Joanna Simon

2004 Waitrose Cerro de la Mesa Crianza, £8.99

Deep, plummy fruit and spicy oak, made by the stellar CVNE

2002 Baron de Ley Club Privado Rioja Reserva, Thresh, 3 @ £7.33

Beautifully aromatic, dark and concentrated

2004 Pago Real Rioja, £11 (Marks & Spencer).

Rich, spiced strawberry fruit and nutty oak

the Independent – Anthony Rose

2003 Berberana Reserva Rioja. £4.49, Tesco

coconutty oak aromas; sweetly strawberry-fruited quality.

2007 Limarí Sauvignon Blanc. £5.99 (today) on offer M&S

mouthwatering dry white from Concha y Toro’s new venture

2003 Chateau Clément Pichon, Cru bourgeois. £14.99, Sainsbury

smooth, cassis-fruit-centred claret with a veneer of toasty oak

the Observer – Ian Wisniewski

Glenmorangie Nectar D’Or (£35.49, selected Sainsbury’s, Tesco)

Lemon tart, underlying zestiness and honeyed notes

Laphroaig Quarter Cask (£26, Waitrose, Tesco)

creamy sweetness laced with gentle smoke; coconut and vanilla.

Port Ellen 28-year-old (£140, Royal Mile Whiskies)

creamy chocolate, lemon zest, creme caramel; gentle waft of smoke

Lagavulin 21-year-old, distilled in 1985 (£110, Royal Mile Whiskies)

upfront toasty smokiness, accompanied by vanilla sweetness

Chivas Regal 25-year-old (£185, Harrods)

dried-fruit flavours with toffee and dark chocolate

Hennessy Fine de Cognac (£27, Waitrose, Sainsbury’s)

vanilla, butterscotch, raisins and dark chocolate

Delamain Pale & Dry XO (£70, Harvey Nichols)

peaches, apricots and orange marmalade, balanced by subtle dry oak

Camus XO Borderies (£85.89, Arthur Rackham)

creamy toffee, butterscotch, creme caramel and a hint of honey

Remy Martin Coeur de Cognac (£44.99, Selfridgesm Tesco)

Peaches, vanilla and toffee appear, before a wave of ripe fruit

Hine Triomphe (£170, selected Waitrose, Fortnum & Mason)

lightly creamy caramel, butterscotch, chocolate and raisins

the Telegraph – Jonathan Ray

Jacob’s Creek Sparkling Rosé (£7.99; Asd, Boo, Bud, Co, Tes, Thr, Mor, Spa)

certainly looks festive and is ideal for getting things going at large gatherings

2006 Marks & Spencer White Burgundy, (£5.99)

crisp, dry and supple

2007 Anakena Chardonnay/Viognier Chile (£4.99; Co-op)

a fruity, full and easy drinking wine.

2005 Vaquero Cabernet Sauvignon, California (£5.25; Jascots)

wonderful, gluggably juicy red

2005 Château Peyriac, Minervois (£3.99; Sainsbury’s)

Syrah/Mourvèdre/Grenache is far better than its price suggests.

2007 Oyster Bay Sauvignon Blanc (£5.99 on offer Co-op)

grassy, herbaceous

2006 Stamford Brook Shiraz/Viognier, Australia (£5.99; Sains)

lipsmackingly full

2006 Vergelegen Reserve Chardonnay (£12.29; Maj, Whole Foods)
2005 Ravenswood Lodi Zinfandel (£8.99; Sains, Majes, Thresh)

both are full-flavoured, ripe and crammed with New World character

Taylor’s 10 Year Old Tawny Port (£16.99; Tes, Sai, Maj, Mor, Som, Thr)
Taylor’s 20 Year Old Tawny Port (£27.49; Sain, Wait, Harr, Self)

either will work a treat, with no need for decanting.

the Guardian – Victoria Moore

Sesti Brunello di Montalcino 2001. £347.92 a case, Armit

crackles like a bonfire, powerful, yet has a velvety texture.

Piancornello Brunello di Montalcino Riserva 2001. £35, Waitrose

Quite an open texture, and easy to get a handle on

Rosso di Montalcino Talenti 2004. £11.95, Bibendum

soothing, sour cherries and dust palate

Pieri Agostina Rosso di Montalcino 2005. £13, Jeroboams

a tantalising warmth that creeps through you

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