03-12-2012 – weekly press roundup

week beginning 11/12/2012

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Mail on Sunday – Olly Smith

Royal Tokaji Nyulaszo Aszu 6 Puttonyos (Hungary) £68.75, Berry Bros

Sweet, peachy, richly complex and luscious with a spark of life

Quinta do Centro Duas Pedras, Alentejo 2010 (Portugal) £8.95, Wine Society

A smoky touch and rich, deep fruit flavours

Passopisciaro IGT 2007 (Italy) £28.50, Corney & Barrow

sheer exuberance of this Sicilian red’s upbeat flavours

Cadet de Ka 2008 (Lebanon) £8.49, M&S

striking fragrance and decent fruit flavours; earthy spice

Mayu Syrah Reserva Elqui Valley 2009 (Chile) £9.99, Sainsbury’s

deep, smoky, spicy, huge red with a sense of balance and beauty

the Telegraph – Victoria Moore

Philizot & Fils Champagne Veuve Monsigny Brut NV (12%, Aldi, £9.99)

Bright and fresh if a little one-dimensional

Pierre Darcys Champagne Brut NV (12%, Asda, £10 until January 3)

Richer than the £10 Aldi champagne but also a bit dusty, not in a good way

Champagne De Vallois Brut NV (12.5%, Tesco, £14 until December 4)

Innocuous enough but a bit too flat and joyless. Not a buy

Finest* Premier Cru Champagne Brut NV (12.5%, £14.99 until January 1 Tesco)

Creamy-textured with bright lemon peeking through like sun behind clouds

Louis Chaurey Brut NV (12%, M & S, £15 or £12.75 on multibuy until January 1)

Steady, fresh, perfectly decent, not flashy, a touch of brioche here

the Independent – Anthony Rose

2008 Asda Extra Special Chianti Classico Riserva. £6.98, Asda

tinged with savoury cherry fruit and herby undertones

2010 Château La Fleur de Haute-Serre. £10.49, Waitrose

fragrant, blackberry-hearted blend with a twist of liquorice spice

2010 Pernand-Vergelesses Les Combottes Blanc. £26, M&S

white burgundy with a seductive fruit richness; mineral freshness

the Observer – David Williams

House Dessert Wine, Rheinhessen, Germany NV (37.5cl, £3.99, Sainsbury’s)

sweet-and-sour cut of marmalade, as well as honey and peaches

Les Jamelles Reserve Mourvèdre, IGP Pays d’Oc 2011 (£5.49 on offer, Co-op)

intense and layered southern French red for rich meaty stews

Lacoste Borie, Pauillac, Bordeaux, France 2009 (£19.99, Tesco)

Supple, fleshy and perfumed with blackcurrant and cedar

The Guardian – Fiona Beckett

Ogier Rasteau Côtes du Rhone Villages (£9.39 24 Booths stores; 14.5% abv)

substantial, handsome

Marks & Spencer’s Cairanne Côtes du Rhône Villages (£9.99; 14% abv)

from the excellent 2010 vintage

The Wine Society’s Exhibition Gigondas (£12.50; 14.5% abv)

from Château Saint Cosme (an incredibly reasonable price)

CVNE Imperial Rioja Reserva 2004 (13.5% abv Co-op £14.99)

brilliant offer; velvety smooth

Peregrine Pinot Noir (13.5% abv Majestic £19.99 on offer)

sumptuously lush

Tomahawk Sparkling Red (£10.99, Laithwaites; 13.5% abv)

a frothy, brambly red from McLaren Vale

The Liberator Special Edition Baroque’n’roll 2009 (£8.95, Wine Soc; 14.5% abv)

exuberant, juicy

Scotland on Sunday – Rose Murray-Brown

CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET 1ER CRU LA ROMANEE 2006 Morey-Coffinet (£36, Raeburn Wines)

absolutely delicious example of classic white Burgundy from a serious appellation

G DE GUIRAUD 2011 (£13.25, Berry Bros & Rudd, www.bbr.com)

Vivid fruit, intense honey with pure long finish

GREYWACKE SAUVIGNON BLANC 2012 KEVIN JUDD (£16.99, House of Menzies; Aitken Wines; WoodWinters; Luvians; Lockett Bros; Henderson Wines; Fine Wine Musselburgh)

pure poised fruits showing his meticulous attention to detail

ROERO ARNEIS 2011 Cornarea (£15.95, Berry Bros & Rudd)

intense citric fruit, good clarity; unusual salty minerally undertone

CUVEE HENRI CHENIN SEC 2010 Domaine de L’Aumonier (£12.99, Lockett Bros)

just the right honeyed mouthfeel with crisp appley acidity


classic combination of grapefruit/citric fruits and nervy acidity

FRIULANO 2009 Vignai da Duline (£16.99, Raeburn Wines)

exotic pear/almond/herby aromas combined with zippy, fresh acidity

SAAR RIESLING 2011 (£8.95, The Wine Society, www.thewinesociety.com)

vibrant, nippy, high acid; a very refined example

TURRANIO SAUVIGNON BLANC 2011 Bosco del Merlo (£16.90, www.bacco-wine.co.uk)

delicious new find with richness and fresh acid

K NAIA 2011 Bodegas Naia (£9, WoodWinters, Bridge of Allan and Edinburgh)

richer textural mouthfeel in their verdejo than many of their rivals

the Telegraph – Susy Atkins

Les Jamelles Réserve Mourvèdre 2011, Pays d’Oc, France (Co-op £6.99)

spiced blackcurrant flavour and rounded, sun-ripe finish

Brazin Old Vine Zinfandel 2010, Lodi, California (Waitrose, £12.99)

brightly fruity, ripe blueberry and raspberry fruit, liquorice edge

Plan de Dieu Côtes du Rhône Villages 2011, France (Marks & Spencer, £8.49)

plenty of blackcurrant and baked plum and a mellow, soft toffee/clove layer

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