05 February 2018 – wine press roundup

the Observer – David Williams

Grato Grati Rosso di Toscano, Italy 1991 (£29.99, Majestic)
leathery savouriness, softness of tannin; oregano-seasoned sour cherry
Tesco finest* Viña Cura Rioja Gran Reserva, Spain 2011 (£11)
ready-aged red wine, with the spicy coconut, vanilla, strawberry
Mt Pleasant Lovedale Semillon, Hunter Valley, Australia 2011 (£24.99, Waitrose)
tangy lemon and lime marmalade on toast

the Guardian – Fiona Beckett

Jean Loron La Crochette Mâcon-Villages 2015, £12.60 Tanners
real finesse and elegance. Think lemon sole fried in butter
Domaine de la Motte Chablis Cuvée VV 2014, £12.99 D Byrne; Rannoch Scott
Classic chablis: clean, pure and mineral. Just lovely
Wm Morrison Red Burgundy, £8; 12.5% abv
Deliciously light and fresh with delicate raspberry fruit
Château de Chamilly Mercurey Clos la Perrière 2015 £27 strictlywine.co.uk
Massively gratifying, opulent, sweet-fruited pinot

the Scotsman – Rose Murray-Brown

Weissburgunder 2016 Toni Jost (£11.95 Wine Society)
Enchantingly fresh zippy example; grown on dark slate soils near Bacharach
Pinot Grigio 2016 (£6.75 reduced from £9 Marks & Spencer)
Crisp unoaked simple structure; a touch of tutti-fruit boiled sweet flavours
Pinot Gris 2016 Johann Wolf (£10.99 Virgin Wines)
Dry unoaked initially crisp, with very rich pear and apple fruits
Burkheimer Feuerberg Grauburgunder 2016 Bercher (£20 Wine Society)
Beautifully-made rich intense white has a touch of honeyed sweetness
Scheurebe QbA Dry 2016 Hans Wirsching (£13.60 The Wine Barn)
Deliciously zesty dry white with citric and passionfruit flavours
Anette Closheim Savvy 2016 (£12.75 Oddbins)
Sauvignon with less pungency than New Zealand, more similar to Loire style
Fruhlingsbote Trocken 2016 (£11.99 www.laithwaites.co.uk)
lightly aromatic with a touch of floral and Muscaty notes.
Alvarinho Trocken 2016 Kunstler (£22 The Wine Society)
Fine elegant linear unoaked white with pronounced acidity
Lenne Pinot Noir 2015 Bernhard Schug (£12.99 Virgin Wines)
delicate strawberry flavours; very soft juicy and quaffable example
Eymann Toreye Spatburgunder 2015 (£19.50 Berry Bros & Rudd)
Fragrant herby Pinot Noir with good concentration and length
Wunderwerk Spatburgunder 2013 Dreissigacker (£32.99 Drinkmonger; Exel Wines)
Beautifully made Pinot Noir; light smoky notes; gorgeous velvet smooth palate

the Independent – Terry Kirby

No column this week

the Telegraph – Victoria Moore

No column this week