19-11-2007 – weekly press roundup

week beginning 19/11/2007

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the Times – Jane MacQuitty

2005 Mâcon-Charnay Cuvée Claude, Manciat-Poncet. Wine Soc, £7.95

gorgeous, ripe ’05, with lots of superb, sweet, verdant, cabbagey fruit

2006 Marcillac, Lo Sang del Pais, Domaine du Cros. Cave de Pyrène, £6.39

untamed quality of this magnificent, seductive, spicy, peppery red

2006 Sancerre Les Ruettes, Marks & Spencer, £7.99 from December 4

terrific, zesty, verdant, classic Loire sauvignon blanc

2006 Château Puy-Servain, Terrement, D. Hecquet. Jeroboams, £6.48

wonderful rich, smoky, white currant and greengage-layered flavours

2006 Creyssels, Picpoul de Pinet, Stone Vine & Sun, £6.25

delicious blast of spicy, greeny-gold, crystallised citrus fruit

2005 Chablis, La Cave des Vignerons, Marks & Spncr £7.99 from Dec 4

elegant, ripe, smoky, steely, verdant, glacé fruit flavours

2006 Mâcon-Villages, Terroir de Burgy, Olivier Fichet, Stone Vine £7.50

powerful, concentrated, floral chardonnay finesse

2005 Pinot Gris Réserve, Cave de Beblenheim, Waitrose, £6.99

all elegant, exotic, floral, lychee-layered spice

2005 Riesling Réserve, Cave Vinicole à Hunawihr, Liberty wines, £7.99

thrilling white is plenty of classic kerosene and lime-scented spice

2000 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling, FW Gymnasium, Majestic, £5.99

delicious waxy, petrolly, marzipan-scented riesling

2006 Storks’ Tower, Sauvignon Blanc-Verdejo, Tesco, £5.99

oodles of elegant, grassy, green bean and peapod-styled fruit

2006 Wakefield Chardonnay, Australia, Majestic, two for £5.99 each

bold, buttered burnt toast palate of this star turn

2006 Moulin-à-Vent, Les Michelons, Louis Latour, Majestic, 2 @ £7.99

ripe, assertive, tangy, crimson purple red; juicy red fruits-stashed palate

2006 Kiwi Cuvée Pinot Noir, Sainsbury’s, £5.99

this red’s smoky, leafy, plummy fruit with a restrained, gamey finish

2005 Good Ordinary Claret, Berry Bros & Rudd, £7.20

robust, scented, plummy blend; chewy finish

2006 St Emilion Extra Special, France, Asda, £7.98 while stocks last

traditional, sweet, rustic, right-bank, coffee bean-scented fruit

2004 Côtes du Ventoux Les Traverses, Paul Jaboulet, Oddbins; Liberty, £6.99

delicious, warm, beefy, violet-scented red oozing star quality.

2006 Gigondas, La Roche Percée, Gabriel Meffre, Waitrose, £7.99 until Dec 11

lots of gorgeous, brooding, herb-scented fruit.

2006 Fayard, Domaine de Fondrèche. Cave de Pyrène £7.17; genesis £7.50

gorgeous sweet, spicy, violet-scented; silky and voluptuous

2006 Storks’ Tower Tempranillo-Shiraz, Spain, Tesco, £5.99

superb, spicy, briary red delivering elegant, fat, juicy plum and blackberry

2004 Valpolicella Classico Superiore, Recchia, Waitrose, £6.99 to Dec 11

lively, briary, smoky palate and assertive cherry-scented acidity

2005 Five Rivers Pinot Noir, California, Majestic, 2 @ £7.99 each

ripe, gamey, strawberry-scented red; delicacy and refinement

2005 Southern Point Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Wine Rack, 3 @ £6.66

terrific, bold, smoky red, with lots of fat, creosotey spice on the palate

the Sunday Times – Joanna Simon

Bredon Brut, £10.99/£14.79 Waitrose

Soft, biscuity, coffee flavours. Great value at £10.99 from Nov 21

2002 Saint Gall Blanc de Blancs, £19.99 Marks & Spencer

Poised, creamy, honeyed, vintage blanc de blancs

Charles Heidsieck Brut Réserve, £26.99 Tesco; Waitrose

Rich, toasty macaroon flavours and lovely freshness. Very underrated

Larmandier Bernier Terre de Vertus, £23.75-£24.95 Lea & Sand; Vine Trail

All-chardonnay premier cru of crystalline purity

Carlin Brut Rosé, £16.99 Real Wine Company

Deliciously round and fruity

1999 Laurent-Perrier, £26.66/£39.99 Maj, Asda, Odd, some Tes, Sai

Stylish vintage with full apple and brioche flavours

1998 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne, £65.99-£110 Maj; Odd; Wai; WRck

Seductive, rich, refined blanc de blancs. Top of tree

the Independent – Anthony Rose

Deutz Brut Rosé. £27.99, Easy Wine, New Generation, N D John

seamless palate of strawberries-and-cream fruitiness

Bruno Paillard Première Cuvée Rosé. £29.99, Whole Food; YN; Bibendum

Scents of perfumed berry fruits; appetisingly rich but savoury

2002 Taittinger Comtes de Champagne Rosé. £125, F&M, Harrods, Vintage Hse

raspberry fruitiness and tangy acidity making for a classic.

1999 Pol Roger Rosé. £47.99, H Nics, Tanners, Townend

intense combination of toastiness and freshness

Ayala Rosé Majeur Brut. £21.99, on offer Marks & Spencer

crisp raspberryish bubbles and elegant flavours

Egly-Ouriet Brut Rosé Grand Cru. £39.95 Lea & Sandeman

tawny bronze colour and developed digestive-biscuit characters

Jansz Tasmanian Rosé NV. £9.99, Oddbins FW, Philglas, Nidderdale

floral tones, appetisingly textured raspberryish mousse

Prosecco Raboso Rosé. 7.49, Marks & Spencer

a confection as light and fluffy as a bag of pink fairground candy floss

Fresita NV. £5.99, Sainsbury’s

medium sweet, authentically strawberryish flavour

Tigress Sparkling Rosé NV, Tasmania. £13.99, Sain (£9.99 until 4 Dec)

scented aromas and strawberry ripple-style fruitiness

Lindauer Sparkling Special Selection. £9.99, widely available, 3 @ £6.66 Thres

refreshingly tangy fruit dissolves on the palate like redcurrant sherbet

2005 Codorniu Vintage Rosé Cava. £4.99 from £9.99 Tesco

berry fruit fragrance and soft raspberries and cream fruit character

the Observer – Tim Atkin

2005 Altano, Portugal (£4.99, Waitrose)

easy-drinking, raspberryish

2006 Sainsbury’s Taste the Difference Douro (£6.9)

more serious, plummy, lightly oaked

2005 Quinta do Vallado Touriga Nacional (£18.50, Bibendum)

perfumed, multi-faceted pure

2005 Quinta do Vale Meão (£43, stockists: 01663 742 230)

profound, violet-scented

the Telegraph – Jonathan Ray

Maker’s Mark Kentucky Straight Bourbon (£22; Wai, Odd, Sai, WRk, Sel)

delightfully smooth yet intricate; crammed with toffee and vanilla

Laphroaig 10 Years Old, Scotland (£24.99; widely available)

peat combine triumphantly with nuts and heather; massively flavoured

Bulleit Bourbon Frontier Whiskey Kentucky (£17.99; Thre, WRack, Maj)

soft, smooth honey flavour with noticeable hints of vanilla

Woodford Reserve Kentucky Straight (£24.99; HNics, Wai, Sel, Sai, Tes, Asda)

Great in a Manhattan, Whiskey Sour, Old-Fashioned or Mint Julep

the Guardian – Victoria Moore

Domaine Lagneau Régnié Vieilles Vignes 2005, £7.25 Stone, Vine & Sun

beautifully vivid; lovely balance between energy and depth.

Extra Special Beaujolais Villages 2006. £4.98, Asda

slight graphite-like smell that I associate with good, finely tuned beaujolais

Domaine Joël Delaunay Touraine Gamay 2005. £6.50 Jeroboams

clear and sapid; reminds me of a broad, blue sky over frosted fields of stubble

Domaine Louis-Claude Desvignes, Morgon, Javernières 2005. £11.95, BBR

The fruit sings and there’s a tingly mineral streak through it, too.

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