(2011) Cru Beaujolais from the 2009 vintage continues to excite with its very ripe, fruity but structured style. This certified organic Morgon is no exception with its relatively deep, solid colour and nose that adds a truffly, undergrowthy, quite Pinot Noirish quality to brightly-toned, juicy cherry and blackberry quality of Gamay fruit. On the palate it has real depth of flavour, the structure and verve of the fruit and tannin offset by little glimpses of herbs and aromatic, floral characters. This is powerful stuff though, with creaminess of texture and real concentration, and it is about as far removed from the average 'Nouveau' as it is possible to get.
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