(2021) The depth and solidity of colour is immediately so striking, as is the powerful minerality and meat-stock depth to this. We’ve moved to a darker fruit spectrum, but still vivid and vibrant, immediately suggesting energy. A sweet, concentrated fruit power and energy, positively silky, slicked with vanilla and combining intense, fleshy black fruits with the elegance and precision of the tannins and acids to wonderful effect.
(2021) Half of the crop in this vintage was lost to frost. Pale crimson, a little more reductive at this stage, the fruit is a little more towards firm black cherry, but still there is elegance and raciness here. I really like the shape of this wine on the palate, firmness at the core, lots of juiciness - the most of these five vintages - and a great, lip-smacking thrust of citrus acidity to give superb sharpness. A weighty but decisive wine. No Uk stockists listed at time of review.
(2021) No whole bunches were included for this pale ruby wine, touched with glowing pale pink on the rim. Spicy, briary and relatively meaty, that floral character is still present, but more on the woodland, spice and savoury, gently meaty red fruit side. Real mouth-filling fruit here, a big, surprisingly sweet and rounded mid-palate with generosity, again the tannins are tight and give a little sandpaper grip along with the juicy acids. An impressive 2017 for sure.
(2021) Made with 100% whole bunches, a little paler than the '15, with more truffle and sappy character, spices too. The palate has that similar character of freshness to the '15, and sappy juiciness, a firm, steely quality in here. The tannins and striking acid have more to say than the '15, and though perhaps lacking a touch of the former vintage’s charm, it's a nervy, fascinating wine.
(2021) Ruby with pale rim, this reminds me of the '15 Clos de l’Arlot, with those briar notes, touching herbs and flowers, and then a creaminess of red fruits come through; cherry and red berries. Really nice palate here, the fruit cool, poised and balanced on its acidity, the fine, firm tannins add freshness, but then the whole wine is fresh, its charming bittersweet twist of liquorice giving so much savouriness. Made with 100% whole bunches. No UK retail listing at time of review.
(2021) Made with 66% whole bunches. Deeper in colour again and a little more violet/purple tinge to the ruby. A little mineral, lightly ashy quality, woodland notes in the background, but really much more focused on the polished, dark fruits. An endive twist of bitter sweetness against cherry skin tang and that mineral character running to a lightly saline finish. Terrific and promising.
(2021) Made with 47% whole bunches. Again pale and soft but glowing ruby. More reticent aromatically than the previous wines, tight and darker, though mostly red fruits again, but so much less open that the 2015 for example. A little meat stock and blood to the savoury profile. The balance is good, it is approachable for sure, but I expect this will cellar and possible loosen up a little with time.
(2021) Lovely pale ruby, translucent and glowing. A lovely truffle and briar character, with dry, small red fruits - cranberry and redcurrant. Beautifully sweet but savoury fruit on the palate, a thrust of orange, but that savoury, spicy, whole bunch character. Made with 54% whole bunches. Served cool, shimmering with energy.