(2016) Gorgeous fragrance here, the cedar and gentle floral notes, the violet and lift of kirsch, some coffee and chocolate, but it's one of those where the fruit drives the palate, loaded with dry, smooth tannins and acidity, but such a plush picture of natural concentration and balance.

(2015) From a single vineyard on a steep schist covered slope in Swartland, François describes this as "completely hands-off winemaking," matured in old 800-litre barrels without any movement for 25 months. More meatiness, more woodsmoke and game, peppery but deeply fruity. The palate has more richness and a drier, and again more meaty character that is terrific.

(2015) I attended a 10-year vertical tasting of Columella with Eben Sadie in Cape Town in September 2015, which I will write up soon, showing the consistently marvellous quality of this wine that so accurately reflects each vintage's growing conditions. This is the currently available wine, with a gorgeous fragrance of cedar and gentle floral notes, the violet and lift of kirsch, some coffee and chocolate, but it's one of those wines where the fruit drives the palate, loaded with dry, smooth tannins and acidity, but such a plush picture of natural concentration and balance. A great wine with 10 years ageing potential.

(2013) Made in 65% foudre, 35% concrete eggs from French firm Noblot, this is pure Syrah. It has an elegant, Northern Rhône style, and immediately reminds me of Mullineux's 'Schist' cuvée tasted the day before with a beefy and bloody streak across the ripe plum fruit. There's a nice trace of vanilla in there, but just a trace, the mineral, lightly earthy tones and that gamy streak the dominant forces. The palate has beautifully pure fruit, such lovely ripeness and sweetness, there's a juiciness and a fresh raspberry jamminess, but at the same time fine tannins at the core are firm, dry, with lots of dark fruit skin bite and tartness and very good acidity. Delicious stuff, really good length and concentration without any thickness.