(2022) A big blend here of 30% roussanne, 30% clairette, 20% viognier, 10% marsanne and 10% bourboulenc. Around 10% was aged in large oak foudre. Creamy, fat apple on the nose, a little cut of lime, before the palate shows lovely sweetness and clarity, a great juiciness here, so much sweetness of fruit but a sherbetty-bright acidity too.
(2022) Made in stainless steel, this Chardonnay was fermented with natural yeasts. Mealy and soft on the nose, aromas are subtle and lemony, just a hint of almond too. The palate has great sweetness of ripe fruit, citrus yes, but a very ripe pear touching on more exotic peach. Fine acid balance here, a streak of citrus and salts into the finish.
(2022) Sauvignon from the cool and often foggy Casablanca Valley, made by Concha y Toro's head winemaker in stainless steel. Intense aroma, but not too herbaceous, not too many fireworks, then the palate shows a similar level of intensity, so much shimmering lime and lemon acidity to cut through the slightly riper fruit of the mid-palate.
(2022) Juhfark is a grape native to Hungary, this made with some skin contact and spontaneous fermentation in big barrels where it aged for 11 months. Some of the barrels were acacia rather than oak, and though I looked for anything reminiscent of acacia honey, I didn't really find it. There is however a nice genrous fruitiness, touch of oatmeal and suggestion of some weight on the nose. In the mouth lovely sweetness of ripe lemony fruit, some peach or nectarine skin grip and tartness as well as flavour, and a long finish sparked by sherbetty acidity. Personality+.
(2022) Furmint aged 12 months in 1000-litre acacia barrels, with 9g/l of residual sugar. Spontaneous fermentation. The sugar disappeares dramatically here in a powerful and fleshy wine that offers some custard apple and peach aromas and fruit on the palate, plenty of chewy texture and acidity, the sweetness detectable right on the finish, but only because it balances lots of powerful flavour and personality.
(2022) Pristine white from Atlantic-influenced vineyards, it is 60% malvasia, plus 40% of mixed local varieties, which had a little skin contact in stainless steel. Lemony yellow in colour with a springtime perfume on the nose, wild flowers and lemon drops. In the mouth a little richer and weightier than you might expect, with bold fruit that races between lemon and a fatter tangerine sweetness, very nice acidity with a lick of salt. Highly drinkable Vinho Verde alternative for the summer with its 11.5% alcohol.
(2022) From granite soils, this Melon de Bourgogne spent a full three years on the lees in concrete vats. Super breezy and fresh, there is iodine and ozone and a crisp citrus and ripe apple fruit personality. In the mouth that bracing lick of seaside air is somehow still evident, a delightful featherlight breeziness of flavour, juicy acids and a long and delightful finish. A little star.
(2022) An unusual blend of macabeu, albariño, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and riesling, from the very reliable producer Tomàs Cusiné. Peachy and fragrant, with a zippy pear-drop and citrus background, the palate is fresh and lively, iwth a big salts and lemons lick of acidity underpinning the ripe pear fruit. Mouth-watering and rather nice.
(2022) From Galicia, this is mostly Godello with 15% of the Doña blanca variety, aged 10 months in stainless steel tanks.There's a succulence here, pear and ripe yellow apple, maybe just a touch of nuttiness. The palate has a lovely rounding sweetness of fruit, with sherbet-bright acidity running beneath. Quite full and quite powerfully concentrated.
(2022) Slovenian Rhine Riesling, with a touch of residual sugar (5.5g/l). Very nice nose hinting at honey, wax and lemon meringue pie, clean but rounded and gentle. That bit of sugar is swallowed up in a wine that is assertive and pithy, seemingly bone dry with mouth-filling extract and plenty of grip and chewiness to the lemon and lime flavours.