(2021) Made only in stainless steel ('Acero') with no oak contact, Marimar selects the most intense fruit from the coolest, ocean-influenced sites for this cuvée. The nose has a gentle creaminess, presumably from some lees ageing, nutty and creamy apple fruit and a zesty hint of lemon. On the palate good bite and freshness here, clarity to the fruit and acidity, which is well-balanced without being aggressive. It's a wine that does not have the sharp precision of the best Chablis (unsurprisingly) and arguably should or could be a few pounds cheaper in my opinion, but it is elegant, restrained and delicious.

(2020) From Vaillons, one of the largest of Chablis' Premier Cru vineyards, this is not the most expressively 'mineral' renditions of Chablis terroir. It's a subtle wine, some gentle floral aspects to fairly straightforward orchard fruits on the nose, a background hint of something peachier comes through, and yes, just a hint of something flinty. In the mouth it is quite a substantial wine, generous acidity edges fairly fleshy, ripe, but focused fruit; there's tension here but also weight and substance.

(2020) Very discreet, apple, pear. Very taut, a sour apple and grapefruit juiciness, cool, direct, that apple and lemon citrus continues. I've been a huge fan of Tony's wines over the years, and though beautifully made, I confess I found this maybe a bit too restrained for its own good?

(2020) This wine spends nine months in 100% French oak, 29% new barrels. Nicely handled oak, just adding a little buttery note and some vanilla, a hit of toast, then super fresh and limpid fruit on the palate, lots of citrus against the inherent fruit sweetness, juicy, pear and apple, and a rounding almond and buttery note in the finish. Stockist and price for an earlier vintage at time of review.

(2019) Made with skin contact during six weeks of fermentation, this is dry, unfiltered and spends a further period of six months in old Fuder (Foudre) large barrels. Light cider notes, a touch of wheat beer yeastiness, the fresh lemon juicy palate refreshing, bone dry impression on the finsih and clean. 7g/l of residual sugar.

(2018) It's a full seven years since I last tasted this wine, when it was a relatively youthful three-year-old and scored 91/100. Now, with a decade under its belt, the blend of 38% Sauvignon Blanc, 35% Macabeu, 19% Vermentino and a handful of other varieties shows a slightly deeper colour and has a lightly sherried aspect on the nose, but still intense apricot and creamy, oatmeally character, the large, old oak barrels used for fermentation and ageing just adding to that. In the mouth a touch of bruised apple, but there is still real fruit sweetness there, allied to a citrus peel acidity and touch of phenolic grippiness, that gives structure and length. Drinking well, it is showing a little age, but hard to say where it will go from here.

(2018) Pouring much the same colour as the 2008, and with the same touch of age showing aromatically, this is a blend of 59% old-vine Macabeu and 18% Sauvignon Blanc, along with Grenache blanc, Chardonnay, Malvoisie and a touch of Vermentino. Mostly made in stainless steel, 28% saw time in new and old 500-litre barrels. Rich, golden in colour and aroma, leesy cream and baked apple, but a brightness to the fruit beneath a touch of oxidation, quite ethereal floral nuances flit in and out. Nice palate, again similar to the 2008, medium- to full-bodied, generous, but still with a core of excellent cirtus peel, fatter acidity.

(2018) Only the second ever release of Chapel Down's top single vineyard Chardonnay. It's harvested by hand, whole bunch pressed, and fermented with wild yeasts in French oak barrels where it spent nine months on the lees. It has lovely clarity, a sheen of almond and nougat over not too ripe orchard fruit, and is immediately elegant. In the mouth it has very good concentration, good ripeness, an enjoyable tension between sweet peachy fruit and a tangy, orange and lemon acidity. Medium-bodied and staying nicely balanced, it's a keen, lithe Chardonnay of great style, the finished just rounded out with subtle oak notes. Burgundian? That's certainly a fair ballpark in which to place this.

(2017) Though Beaune may be more familiar as a red wine, the appellation covers white wines too, in this case a blend from different Premier Cru parcels matured for around 10 months in oak, about 15% new. Oatmeal and almond toastiness at first, a hint of spice and modest apple fruit. In the mouth very good ripeness, lots of pear and apple, a hint of something orangey to the acidity, then the infill of the spices and wheatmeal and oatmeally oak again. Enjoyable, though perhaps a touch abrupt.

(2017) Winemaker Mike Symons worked at Antinori in Italy for several years, so perhaps brings a different perspective to his wines. This 2011 shows a little more age and comes from "a very rainy vintage that required four pickings, the first three just to remove rotten bunches." Partial malolactic from these 1988 vineyards planted to Lyre trellising, that are generally more ripe. A nicely and lightly toffeed nose, the palate sherbetty and bright, still drinks nicely.