(2023) Somehow seems more smoky, flinty than the 2019 and 2020, a touch of fig and herbs and peach skins. Limpid and luscious on the palate, that light figgy smokiness continues. There's a creaminess of texture here, the barrel-derived character and a weight of fruit cut by fine acidity. Bottled in December 2019. pH 3.30 and acidity 6.4 g/l.

(2023) An extra half a percentage point of alcohol here compared to the 2020, and there's a really luscious, almost tutti-frutti brightness to the fruit, a real juiciness here and certainly more primary feeling that the 2018. Lots of pithy lemon and grapefruit slicing through the lychee and peach of the palate, a little flinty edge adding to the acid impression. Bottled in December 2020, so almost a year on oak and eight months in bottle. pH 3.11 and acidity 6.2 g/l.

(2022) The 'Old Vines' here are indeed 30 years old, which in Marlborough terms, is truly ancient. Matured in French oak barrels The nose opens with a blast of flint and complex sulphide notes, but so much nutty, vanillin oak creaminess and still no shortage of ripe stone fruits. On the palate, absolutely succulent: juicy peach and ripe, clean pear flavours, but underpinned by fudge and chocolate depth, then thrilling acidity. An outstanding wine, from an outstanding vintage.

(2022) I've tasted the 2013 version of this wine several times, as recently as last year, and what a stunner of a white with almost 10 years under its belt that is. A blend of 70% Sauvignon Blanc aged in old oak barrels, and 30% Semillon aged in new oak barrels. This obviously more youthful example has a taut lemon curd and stone fruit nose, before an intense palate showing the old vine concentration. Right now, the sheer lemony concentration of the fruit and acidity just allows a squeak of the creamy barrel component to show through. My score is cautious, based on this tasting of a potentially fabulous wine for ageing in the very same mould as the 2013. I look forward to tasting this again in the future.

(2021) From older vineyards and another season where yileds were reduced by cool spring weather. The juice was racked directly to French oak barrels (8% new) and large wooden casks for fermentation initiated by indigenous yeasts. The wine matured in barrel, on fine lees, for 11 months, before transferring to less oxidative vessels to finish ageing: stainless steel, concrete tanks and large format casks. Creamy, lightly nutty, but definitely Marlborough still,  with some tropical fruit character, lots of citrus and stone fruits, and really lovely, creamy- to almost minty acid quality that fills the mouth along with the sweet, buttery fruit into the finish. Intense and well-balanced.

(2021) From one of the driest vintages on record in Marlborough, again the recipe is similar to the 2019 with spontaneous fermentation in French oak barrels (8% new), though larger oak vats where not used. It spent 15 months in barrel on fine lees. Gorgeous nose, very white Bordeaux-like, with creamy almond and cashew over pristine white fruits. Again I get a touch of mint or mint humbug on this, but it is now all about that and the fruit, with no real sign of any pyrozene green characters. In the mouth a little toasty though also slightly more vegetal quality is very pleasant among the fresh citrus acidity and little suggestion of exotic fruit.

(2020) A Sauvignon Blanc that marches to a different beat, fruit is hand-picked, whole bunch pressed and fermented and aged in older French oak barrels for 18 months. Grapefruit and nutty, almondy oak combine, along with a ripe orchard fruit character. In the mouth lovely juiciness and thrust, the pithy, mineral freshness of the acidity, a touch of flint, and squeeze of citrus to finish.

(2020) The 2010 Section 94 is 100% Sauvignon Blanc from a special block of the vineyard. Hand-picked, whole-bunch pressed and fermented and aged in older French oak barrels for 18 months there's a hint of buttercup yellow to the colour. Big, flinty, mineral nose, the fruit submerged, searing citrus fruit and acidity, nutty and savoury, so dry, so grapefruity and mouth-watering. Stockist quoted at time of review has cases of 12 available. Bottle equivalent price quoted.

(2020) Fermented in oak foudre, part natural yeast from a 'pied de cuve', from this special vineayrd on clay soils that has been run organically for a long time. Buttery and nutty nose, with opulent fruit, a touch of flint, and a great seam of creamy but preicise acidity leading to a great tangy, zesty, linear finish. Price and stockist quoted at time of review is for a previous vintage.

(2020) Four days of skin contact give this a pink-tinged, salmon/copper hint of colour, a yeastiness and taut, dry red berries and apple. The skin contact gives a lovely texture, and bone dry in the finish. Grapefruit pith and zesty fruit, long, intense, fascinating and fabulous.