(2017) More creamy and gently toasty oak, with more of that complex fig and gentle sulphidic character, nicely hazelnutty, with plenty of citrus and crunchy apple acids, with a ripe lemony fruit - sharp, but with fat and generosity, with the oak filling in. A more diffuse style than Kooyong for example, but very delicious. Note price and stockist at time of review are for the 2014 vintage.

(2017) Winemaker Jonathon Mattick explains that the Wallis vineyard was planted in 1992 on volcanic soils, the breeze from the Bass Strait only 4km away being a big influence. This sees 20% new oak with batonnage. Hints of green fig and a bit of slaty/flinty character and a fair bit of oak showing. The palate has a pithy, limey citrus character, with a deal of juiciness that is deliciously mouth-watering.

(2017) Quite a minty nose and with a lovely lemon meringue pie quality, creamy but also fat lemons. Very cool, very lean in the mouth at this stage, lots of apple cores and dry pithy acidity, a real intensity and finesse to this, a bone-dry style, the oak just savoury and grippy with no oaky flavours. Long, taut and needs time.

(2017) Green-flecked and lightly flinty, but again it is more about that creamed crushed almond character, a bit of citrus peel too. The palate has a really cool freshness, a nicely slippery texture and then a touch of creamy oak to support as precise lime-skin acidity pushes through, just hints of tropical sweetness to balance.

(2017) Prevaling easterly wind helps cool this vineyard, planted in 1981 mostly as Cabernet, but since grafted to Pinot and Chardonnay. This is the premium Chardonnay in the range. Rollo Crittenden says he "dabbled with biodynamics but decided against," so now lots of cover crops - legumes and broad beans - and composting, so basically organic with no synthetic chemicals used. Lovely sheen of almond and oatmeal, just the merest hint of flintiness and definite creaminess of aroma. Lovely palate, the lime and orange zest of the acidity also edges the more tropical fruit. Nice firmness to the acids against the creamy texture, a cool apple core bite.

(2017) Kooyong is part of the Port Philip stable, winemaker Glen Hayley explaining its vineyards are in a warmer spot that is one of the first as you approach from Melbourne, and very good for Pinot too. Lots of reductive, flinty character, slate and gunflint. Only around 10% sees oak, with no malolactic and the lees not stirred. Such a different style from the Crittenden, with its own more austere charms, touches of green herbs and cool, pithy citrus. Lovely bite of Chablis-like flavour with ramped up intensity. Farmed "more or less," organically.

(2017) Wild ferment, one thirds each fermented in puncheons, tank and tank on skins. Aromatically subdued, but a delicious nuttiness and apple skins. The palate has lovely textural richness, great length and a delicious orange acidity. In many ways un-Sauvignon-like, but complex and rather delicious.

(2017) Sandy vineyard. Real lift and exoticism, a perfume and exotic ginger and a touch of passion fruit. Great personality on the palate too, but a raft of apple fresh acidity cutting the creaminess of the texture.

(2017) Fifteen months in French oak barriques, half new, and lovely flinty reductive notes adding lots of complexity. Comes through with a fat, full texture and creaminess, very nice apple fruit and that elegant, creamy complexity.

(2014) Selected from three vineyard blocks, this was pressed into tight-grained French oak barriques (only 10% new) where it was fermented with wild yeasts. It was matured in barrel for 10 months, and malolactic fermentation was blocked. There's certainly an extra measure of nuttiness and complexity over the Red Claw. Again it is flintily complex giving all sorts of smoky, wispy notes of fresh-cracked stones: a real mineral appeal. So tight and pure on the palate, with wonderful focus and linearity, the finish is long and gently tapering.