(2017) Emerald tinge to the colour, nice hint of butter and toast from the barrels, a nice hint of flint too, however, and turns quite tight and retains plenty of fruit sweetness against its acidity. Rather nice.

(2017) Nice flinty character here, very appealing, though quite closed, feels just a little constrained and as though there's a lot still to come in a true baby of a wine. Very nice balance, very nice tight citrus zest and hints of that flinty mineral saltiness, suggest this will evolve very nicely and I am confident it will deserve its score. Price and stockist quoted at time of review is for the 2014 vintage.

(2017) Winemaker Luke Lomax says the philosophy is to look for balance between fruit, acid and phenolics and always lower alcohols. Crushed and fermented with wild yeast in 500l puncheons, no malo. Quite creamy and appley, the light earthinss and straw-like notes of wild yeast complexity, lime rind and a touch of spice. The palate shows lovely nuttiness and a bit of breadth of texture, but that taut mineral and lemon/apple dry acid and keenly juicy fruit concentration gives great clarity. Note price and stockist shown at time of review is for the 2014 vintage.

(2017) More creamy and gently toasty oak, with more of that complex fig and gentle sulphidic character, nicely hazelnutty, with plenty of citrus and crunchy apple acids, with a ripe lemony fruit - sharp, but with fat and generosity, with the oak filling in. A more diffuse style than Kooyong for example, but very delicious. Note price and stockist at time of review are for the 2014 vintage.

(2017) Winemaker Jonathon Mattick explains that the Wallis vineyard was planted in 1992 on volcanic soils, the breeze from the Bass Strait only 4km away being a big influence. This sees 20% new oak with batonnage. Hints of green fig and a bit of slaty/flinty character and a fair bit of oak showing. The palate has a pithy, limey citrus character, with a deal of juiciness that is deliciously mouth-watering.

(2017) Quite a minty nose and with a lovely lemon meringue pie quality, creamy but also fat lemons. Very cool, very lean in the mouth at this stage, lots of apple cores and dry pithy acidity, a real intensity and finesse to this, a bone-dry style, the oak just savoury and grippy with no oaky flavours. Long, taut and needs time.

(2017) Green-flecked and lightly flinty, but again it is more about that creamed crushed almond character, a bit of citrus peel too. The palate has a really cool freshness, a nicely slippery texture and then a touch of creamy oak to support as precise lime-skin acidity pushes through, just hints of tropical sweetness to balance.

(2017) Prevaling easterly wind helps cool this vineyard, planted in 1981 mostly as Cabernet, but since grafted to Pinot and Chardonnay. This is the premium Chardonnay in the range. Rollo Crittenden says he "dabbled with biodynamics but decided against," so now lots of cover crops - legumes and broad beans - and composting, so basically organic with no synthetic chemicals used. Lovely sheen of almond and oatmeal, just the merest hint of flintiness and definite creaminess of aroma. Lovely palate, the lime and orange zest of the acidity also edges the more tropical fruit. Nice firmness to the acids against the creamy texture, a cool apple core bite.

(2017) Kooyong is part of the Port Philip stable, winemaker Glen Hayley explaining its vineyards are in a warmer spot that is one of the first as you approach from Melbourne, and very good for Pinot too. Lots of reductive, flinty character, slate and gunflint. Only around 10% sees oak, with no malolactic and the lees not stirred. Such a different style from the Crittenden, with its own more austere charms, touches of green herbs and cool, pithy citrus. Lovely bite of Chablis-like flavour with ramped up intensity. Farmed "more or less," organically.

(2017) Wild ferment, one thirds each fermented in puncheons, tank and tank on skins. Aromatically subdued, but a delicious nuttiness and apple skins. The palate has lovely textural richness, great length and a delicious orange acidity. In many ways un-Sauvignon-like, but complex and rather delicious.