(2019) Old vine Pinot Noir from 1er Cru vineyards in Vertus, this is made by bleeding some colour from the Pinot grapes at the start of fermentation. It's Extra Brut, so dry with only around 3g/l of sugar, but ageing for two years on the lees and six more months on the bottle adds richness. Filled with small, taut red fruit aromas - redcurrant and raspberry - it is vinous for sure, the PInot heritage clear as it strikes the palate with real authority: tight, crisp tannins and acids, the little bullets of hard red fruits giving crunch and presence, and the mousse and touch of leesy creaminess softening the picture into a long, crisply-defined finish. Terrific, thought-provoking pink Champagne.
(2018) Composed of 50% Pinot Noir from the Montagne de Reims, a proportion of which was vinified as a red wine, then blended with 40% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Meunier, this is aged on the lees for three years. It has a bold and relatively deep pink colour, and a lovely nose of wafting summer berries but with a little Pinot quality of sweer earth and lightly balsamic notes. In the mouth it is a substantial and fruity Champagne, a touch of creaminess, but has a fine core of acidity that shimmers through to the finish.
(2017) Beautiful aromas here, a hint of meatiness and damp forest floors, then the small red fruits, very clear indeed, a haunting glimpse of something floral, like rose-hip perhaps in this blend of 70% Pinot Noir and 30% Chardonnay. Dry, delicate, but there is good length and it does have substance and a touch of meaty, earthy character beneath the charm of the fruit. Drinking now.
(2017) Deutz rosé is mostly PInot Nor from the Montagne de Reims, with a touch of Chardonnay. It has a very delicate and attractive peachy-pink colour, the nose creamy with small red berry fruits but a certain biscuity note too, not always found in pink Champagnes. In the mouth it is vibrantly packed with reducrrant, raspberry and crisply defined dry red fruits, but it is ripe and sweet-edged too, the delicate mousse and fine acidity balancing beautifully. With a touch of chocolate or coffee adding roundness, the finish is quite intense, but never losing that elegance and delicacy.
(2017) Richard Geoffroy used the highest ever proportion of red Pinot Noir wine in this blend, 27%, making it a decidedly meaty, Burgundian Champagne, with truffle and forest floor, vinous with red berry fruit. That welterweight of flavour slightly butts up against the acidity at this stage for me, tannins too against grapefruit, suggesting perhaps that a few years in the cellar will do this no harm.
(2016) The high proportion of Chardonnay (45%) in the blend perhaps adds to the sense of creamy finesse in this wine, though with 18% of Pinot Noir blended in too it does not lack attractive small red berry fruitiness and a bit of texture and structure too. Wonderfully fresh and with a creaminess to the mousse, it is an utterly charming, rose-hip scented rosé Champagne, beautifully balanced and long too. Widely available with prices ranging from the low £40s on special deals to £60 per bottle.
(2015) The neckband of all of the ‘D’ non-vintage wines states “Aged 5 years.” The rosé is an assemblage of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from a 2008 base, with 10% Pinot Noir. Again only a small proportion goes through malolactic. Michel says “I don’t want to use too much reserve wine, as I want to retain a fresh style. If I served it in a black glass I would want you to be wondering whether it is white or a rosé.” It is certainly very delicate, though there is a little earthy and smoky character with small red fruit notes, a touch of pomegranate or redcurrant, nicely aromatic. There is a shimmering lemony freshness and very pure fruit-driven palate, with little sign of autolysis as it drive through with a salty mineral freshness. An excellent rosé.
(2015) 12% abv. A relatively deep pink, this is all sour lemons, rotted apple (that's nice by the way!) and a touch of toffee too. The palate is brisk and fruity, some raspberry and small red fruit notes, but plenty of lemony acids too. This is juicy proper wine, and well done, with a long, smart and crisp finish. Delicious.
(2015) A blend of the three main Champagne grapes. It has a very delicate and pale salmon/peach colour, and tiny streaming bubbles. The nose is all about small red fruit delicacy too, with a gentle, authentic sour apple note and a deliciously fresh palate: savoury and dry, those red berry flavours are wrapped in stylish acidity, touches of lemon and minerals into the finish. Pretty as a picture, yet elegant to the last.
(2015) The neckband of all of the 'D' non-vintage wines states "Aged 5 years." The rosé is an assemblage of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from a 2008 base, with 10% Pinot Noir. Again only a small proportion goes through malolactic. Michel says "I don't want to use too much reserve wine, as I want to retain a fresh style. If I served it in a black glass I would want you to be wondering whether it is white or a rosé." It is certainly very delicate, though there is a little earthy and smoky character with small red fruit notes, a touch of pomegranate or redcurrant, nicely aromatic. There is a shimmering lemony freshness and very pure fruit-driven palate, with little sign of autolysis as it drive through with a salty mineral freshness.