(2017) Richard Geoffroy used the highest ever proportion of red Pinot Noir wine in this blend, 27%, making it a decidedly meaty, Burgundian Champagne, with truffle and forest floor, vinous with red berry fruit. That welterweight of flavour slightly butts up against the acidity at this stage for me, tannins too against grapefruit, suggesting perhaps that a few years in the cellar will do this no harm.

(2014) The Rose is composed of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir, with the addition of 7% of red Pinot Noir from Bouzy and Ambonnay in a rosé made by 'assemblage' rather than the skin contact method of 'saignée'. It spends four years on the lees before disgorgement. What a lovely, bold raspberry and softer strawberry fruit it presents on the nose, with a hint of Pinot earthiness and truffle and a little yeasty note. There's a nicely drying nip of tannin on the palate, but lots of Pinot character with truffle and soft red berries, and fine balancing acidity.

(2014) DP rosé is an assemblage rather than a saignée, that is, it is made by adding some red Pinot Noir to the base wine for the blend, and whilst the heat of 2003 was exceptional, Dom Pérignon seem to have embraced it to make a very ripe rosé Champagne. It has a beautiful pale to medium salmon colour. Really fresh and bright, strawberry and raspberry soar from the glass. Notes of the baked apple and vanilla richness of the 2004, are there, but what this majors on is the sweet fruit richness and vinous depth. Layered and yet delicate, there is a meaty substance here too that is Pinot-like, suggesting this would be a great food wine. This style wasn't universally popular on the night, but I really enjoyed it.