(2019) Weighing-in with only 12.5% ABV, this fruit comes from a 1964 vineyard in the Swartland. Really lovely Brazil nut character, but lots of funkiness, the butter and lanolin beneath, some floral elegant hints and although only 12.5%, no sign of greenness, just a terrific acidity that is tangy and salty. Beautifully balanced.
(2015) Chenin Blanc makes up 80% of the blend here with Semillon from the 2013 vintage and a bit of Bourboulenc. Quite a complicated winemaking recipe with skin contact for the Chenin blanc, the Semillon aged on lees for over a year, then the blend aged for 16 months in old barrels. Really attractive mineral smokiness and ripeness, bursts with really explosive sweetness, but a fine, long finish.
(2013) The blend is 76% Chenin Blanc, 17% Clairette Blanc and a touch of Viognier, vines from the three main soils of the region: iron-rich 'Koffieklip', granite and schist. The wine is made in foudres and aged in neutral oak barrels for 11 months. Lovely nose, a real smoky, flinty character here joining the preserved lemon and dry apple. The palate has delicious texture, and I love the pear and very ripe apple/melon fruit, the Viognier adding a little hint of juicy nectarine. Delicious finish, very sharply defined despite the wine going through full malolactic. Powerful but fresh and
(2013) 100% barrel fermented, but no new barrels, aged for a further 11 months in barrel. It comes from three different blocks, made up of schist, granite and shale and the 25- 60-year-old vineyard is again dry farmed. Lovely touch of apricot and passionfruit at first, grapefruit and definite exotic notes here. Very ripe and plush fruit in the mouth, the oak hardly noticeable, but the richness of the fruit and slightly more textural weight fills the mouth. Lovely spicy but clean and fresh finish.
(2013) The latest in the Liberator series made by British MW Richard Kelly in conjunction with top but unnamed winemakers is a blend of Chenin, Viognier, Chardonnay and Clairette. It's a big white with its 14.5% abv, and only 210 cases were made so don't hang around if you fancy it. There's a golden hue to this obviously aged wine and a delicious hint of gentle and controlled nutty oxidation on the nose. fresh, yeasty and bready, the dry nut husk appeal and an apple freshness combine to intrigue. On the palate it has huge power and sweetness (the alcohol no doubt helping) with spices and vanilla marrying to abundantly ripe and sweet fruit of Ogen melon, apple and ripe and juicy pear. Long and focused by its clean acidity, this is nutty, mineral yet honeyed stuff that is delicious and charming.
(2013) All of the wines in this Old Vineyards range are sealed with wax. The Scorpion comes from a very old vineyard planted in a sand dune with chalk layer beneath. It's a 50-year-old field blend of Chenin Blanc and Palomino, only reachable by a specially adapted Land Rover according to Paul Jordan. These are unirrigated bush vines a couple of hours drive north and the wine is made in concrete 'eggs'. Lovely golden colour and a beautiful nose of salty minerals, a touch of wax and lanolin, nutty apple and honey tones all so appealing. There are lovely little roasted notes too, before the palate shows pristine, dry, lightly orangy, orange rind fruitiness. There is such clarity here, all that nutty, lemon rind texture and visceral weight in the mouth.
(2013) Skurfberg (Rough Mountain) comes from a much warmer area hence 14.5% abv as opposed to Skerpioen's 13% abv, from a vineyard three hours north of winery in Oliphants River. Again the 60- 70-year-old bush vines are unirrigated, all Chenin planted in decomposed sandstone. That beautiful golden colour again, nutty, a bit of vanilla (though it is made mostly in concrete eggs with just a little neutral oak). Hints at more fruit and on the palate that much more fruit sweetness comes through, really ripe crunchy golden apple, but hinting at more tropical fruit too. Lime rind and zest, and a juiciness to this and delicious balance, the alcohol sitting very nicely, barely noticeable because of that old vine concentration and shimmering acidity.
(2013) Another of the wines that put Sadie on the map, 22 barrels were made this vintage and the alcohol comes in at 14.5%. Based on Chenin Blanc, Palomino and Grenache Blanc, with little bits of Semillon, Semillon Gris, Clairette, Marsanne, Roussanne, Verdelho and, finally, a touch of Viognier. From decomposed granite and slate soils, and some table mountain sandstone. All grapes are hand sorted into 500 litre neutral barrels for fermentation. Huge, honey and nut-layered stone fruits and that deep golden colour again, the apple and peach subsumed under minerality and that nutty, dry character. Beautiful silky texture here, with such intensely sweet fruit, concentrated nectarine and then that flowing but nutty dryness into a very long finish.
(2013) Fermented in Foudre, then transferred to concrete tanks where it spends 20 months on its lees. Adi tells me there are 10 to 12 different white grapes in the blend, but based around Chenin, Grenache Gris, and "lots of bits and pieces including Chardonnay, Palomino and Semillon." This has much more of a funky, wild yeast nose than the Secateurs with straw and gently earthy notes over oatmeal and the base of very sweet, nicely nutty and ripe apple and even peach. Lovely texture, rich and rolling, with that core of intense, concentrated sweetness all folding into dry, fruit skins and white acidity, a lovely pithy and zesty finish stops any hint of flabbiness.
(2013) Swig will have 600 half bottles of this in June - 60% of the entire production. With only 12.5% ABV, this comes from a Solera system and was "tough to get approved by the wine certification board," according to Adi. It is made mainly from Chenin Blanc with some Chardonnay and eight other varieties. It has a fairly deep, golden colour and a delightfully sherried nose, showing a Jura-like, oxidised nuttiness. Lovely combination of those funky, nutty, marzipan notes and a deeper yellow apple character. Beautiful Fino-like freshness and texture, that lovely nutty and leafy character and a delicious lanolin quality, dry apple cores and beautifully balanced and dry in the finish.
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