(2023) A blend of the three main Champagne grapes, though dominated by Chardonnay, this is a typically fresh and dry wine from Legras & Haas. It is not without fruit, elegance or charm. A fine, foamy mousse reveals plenty of sour lemon and lime, mouthwatering fruit and a long, delicately saline finish. Nice touch of creaminess to the texture.

(2023) This Extra Brut cuvée with only around 2g/l dosage is 100% Chardonnay, again from the family's Grand Cru vineyards in Chouilly. All Legras & Haas wines have a linear, very decisive line, but here that mineral and lemon zip is enhanced by the low dosage, but crucially not at the expense of fruit. The juiciness of the mid-palate, layered with just a little creaminess developing, results in a refined aperitif style of great quality.

(2023) A Chardonnay-dominated blend (55%) with a modest dosage of 6g/l, the fruit comes from various vineyards and top villages such as Cramant and Aÿ, the wine spending three years on the lees. It's a beautifully clear and crips style; not austere in the slightest, and not simple and lemony either. The nose has some lovely biscuit character and the palate walks a line between peach, salts and crystalline iced lemon. Refined and elegant, yet has a teasing hint of generosity. Very good.

(2023) The blend is 50% Pinot Noir, 30% Pinot Meunier and 20% Chardonnay for this wine, fruit from the Vallée de la Marne. The dosage is modest at 7g/l. Coppery pink in colour, the mousse is modest, and the immediate aromas are of bruised apple and mushroom, a hint of cranberry fruit. In the mouth this has a lively streak of lemony acidity that is the first impression. Quite rounded, there is a nuttiness and that bruised, oxidative character again. Not a rosé for those who look for a pretty summer fruit style, quite meaty.

(2023) A blend of 2009 (60%) and 2008 (40%) Chardonnays, bottled in April 2010 and disgorged January 2018. More or less eight years on the lees has imbued this organic wine with a golden colour and buttery richness, yet a lowly dosage of just 3.5g/l ensures it has attack and clarity too. There's lovely meatiness to the fruit, perhaps enhanced with the use of wild yeasts for fermentation. The mousse is quite soft, but biting citrus and that core of acidity means there's nothing blowsy here. An incisive wine yet with that generosity of its long ageing and, I believe, some barrel ageing for a propprtion of the base wines.

(2023) From Les Ricys, this is 90% Pinot Noir, with 10% Chardonnay. Aged a minimum of three years on the lees, there's lots of biscuit and yeasty freshness overlaying a light umami character and hints of red fruit ripeness. The palate has a sweet attack and very fine, rolling, cushioning mousse. There is a mouth-filling breadth to this, quite sumptuous, then the excellent acid code pushes through, extending the finish.

(2023) This 100% Pinot Noir pink is made by the saignée method, whole bunches of grapes 'bleeding' colour and phenolics during pressing. It has a notably deep colour, with aromas of rich strawberry and red cherry aromas, a suggestion of Negroni on the nose for me. There is a sour cherry bite on the palate, the sweetness of the dosage against the cranberry and cherry richness, a little tannin adding a robust edge to the finish. A distinctive style.

(2023) Lallier's cellarmaster is Dominique Demarville, whose C.V. is impressive, having held that position at Mumm, Perrier-Jouët and Veuve Clicquot. This blends 55% Chardonnay with 45% Pinot Noir, and was bottled with a modest dosage of 8g/l. The mousse is fine, with small persistent bubbles. Biscuit and brioche overlays a fruity opening, notes of lemon sherbet and green apple are crisp and appetising. On the palate it is a very finely honed Champagne, delicate and filigree weight and flavour is etched by fine chalky acidity, but there's a hint of peach and sweetness from the dosage that gives lovely balance.

(2023) Gosset's pink is a blend of 55% Chardonnay and 45% Pinot Noir, 8% of the Pinot vinified as red wine. The wine does not go through malolactic conversion, and is aged a minimum of three years on the lees. Interesting factoid: Cellarmaster Odilon de Varine prefers to blend it in black glassware, so he is not influenced by colour, but by taste and aroma alone. The nose has a lovely pillow of biscuit and custardy creaminess, but there's keen, small red berry fruit too. The mousse is mouth-filling, and this is immediately dry and crisp with 8g/l dosage, shimmering with elegant, lemony, almost minty fresh acidity. The savoury berry fruit is nicely weighted through the mid-palate. Watch the Wine of the Month video for more information.

(2022) Voirin-Jamel is a grower in the Grand Cru village of Cramant. This 50/50 blend of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir spent 24 months on the lees and was bottled with a modest dosage of 6g/l. There's a lovely, cheery robustness about the aromas here, a touch of raspberry lies over hazelnut with a crunch of gravel in the background. The palate shows the sweetness of really ripe fruit, a certain weight and breadth, but a fine sharpening core of zippy citrus acidity. A lovely Champagne at a keen price - on special offer at £25.