(2017) The blend is 54% Cabernet Sauvignon and 46% Shiraz in the wine known as ‘baby Grange’ because it is aged in ex-Grange barrels – 12 months in American oak hogsheads. Cedary, quite pruney at first, curranty, but again crucially not ‘dead fruit’ – super ripe, not overripe. Tight and creamy on the palate, filled with sweet but tangy cassis, excellent concentration and so tightly focused by its acidity and fine tannin framework. Will cellar 10 years.
(2016) From a different soil (sandy ironstone with clay) in the same 1980s vineyard planted by Ralph, there's a richer, more chocolaty texture and plushness to this, abundant fruit and sweet earthy notes, but it has a savoury, vinous intensity too, dry and furring the mouth with its tannins, though as with all of these Jauma wines, its fresh and super-clean as it finishes.
(2016) From a vineyard planted by a man called Ralph in 1988, sitting at 900 metres in the Clarendon hills, this is wine of relatively pale colour after 12 months in neutral barrels, but bursts with buoyant fruit, red berries and blackberries, a touch of chestnut in there, and some floral, herb touches too. Then, it floods onto the palate with a similar winning blend of bold, uncomplicated natural fruit concentration and underpinning structure. Lovely freshness to the acids too.
(2016) 100% of the fruit comes from the Lenswood appellation, 70% whole bunch-pressed. Love the nutty, more mushrooms and briary character here, with a really fresh acidity and fabulous leafy but not green elegance. Note: UK stockist and price quotes is for the 2014 vintage at time of review.
(2016) Very attractive creamy cappuccino character, the orange rind notes and it is gently sappy, briary and coffee-ish again, with a rasp of tannin and acidity and terrific squirting juiciness. Lovely structural elements here too. Note: UK stockist and price are for the 2014 vintage at time of review.
(2016) The Eden Valley component, with its cooler nights, once again gives lift and perfume to what is Torbreck's biggest selling wine in the restaurant trade. “We can’t make enough of this wine,” says Stuart. A nice black fruit lift, with tight blackcurranty aromas, and intense liquorice and black-berry fruitiness, taut with a sheen of smoke, but lovely balance again with the tight tannins and good, fresh juicy acidity. Available by the case of six in-bond at time of review.
(2016) A GMS blend (Grenache, Mataro and Shiraz) made in older French oak barrels from 100-year-old vine fruit. It is fabulously deep, with terrific mulberry and sweet clove depth, a sheen of vanilla and chocolate, and spicy black fruits flooding the palate. A lovely sense of effortless concentration and drinking beautifully.
(2016) The Eden Valley provides 30% of the fruit for the Struie, coming from 36-year-old vines, blended with Barossa fruit that’s 80 years old. Fine lift and fragrance here, with some floral notes, a touch of violet and chocolate and the juiciness is there, with tight, tight tannins and good acids. A much more perfumed style, though without the substance of some. Note, not available in the UK at time of writing, so 2013 stockist quoted.