(2023) A blend of Grand Cru Pinot Noir grown in Aÿ and Chardonnay from Chouilly. There's lots of ripe, upfront fruit here, tethered by an umami meatiness and savour. Based on a perpetual reserve started in 1996, this release was bottled in 2017 and the extensive time under cork has allowed it to settle into a harmonious but intense wine. There is such sweetness here, super-ripeness to the fruit, but acidity flashing through the long finish.
(2020) Tasted several times, most recently in 2014 (and scored 96) this is probably my favourite of the more recent Suduiraut vintages along with 2001, 2009 and 2010. The colour is a gorgeous burnished gold, and the nose a wonderously deep, smoke, Seville orange and barley sugar confection, notes of fig jam and walnut adding to the warmth of the appeal. On the palate so thick and luscious, the 165g/l of residual sugar meaning it is sweetly mouth-filling, glycerine and honey-rich, with such wonderfully poised acidity giving perfect balance. Just brilliant Sauternes this, undoubtedly with the capacity to cellar further, but utterly delicious now.
(2020) On checking my notes I find that surprisingly I last tasted this in 1998 when I bought a few bottles. 22 years on it is an old wine, and though showing its age, still offering plenty of pleasure. Soft, tawny to ruby in colour, the nose has dried leaves, coffee and lots of autumnal scents. In the mouth the fruit is hanging on nicely, edged with raspberry and with a nice orangey acidity, tannins fully resolved. I have one more bottle of this which I certainly won't leave too much longer.
(2019) From magnum. A complex year with early budding but violent hail storms, but a very good summer and low yield. 69% Pinot Noir and 31% Chardonnay, disgorged December 2018 with 8g/l dosage. Creamy without the more developed hazelnut and coffee nuances of the 1983. Delightful richness, nutty apple and some exotic notes with glimpses of papaya and spiced orange. On the palate it has great length and that mouth-filling creaminess, there is some toast and buttery Brazil nut richness that fills the finish to join lovely sweetness of fruit and racing acidity. Fabulous wine. Price quoted at time of review for 75cl and not this disgorgement.
