(2021) From a plot of 4.81 hectares on rocky, calcium-rich soils, the vines are 40- to 50-years old, harvested 11 - 13 September. Slightly more new oak (25%) in this cuvée than the others tasted. Lovely bright red fruit aromas, bold cherries and, a hint of raspberry moving into briar and touching clove and cinammon. A finely-wrought graphite element. Nicely fleshy ripe berries, the tannins here are powerful but also very ripe and creamy, along with that light herbal/spice note and the gentle tobacco smokiness of the barrels. The impression is powerful, but svelte and full, with excellent freshess. Delightful.
(2021) This wine is a blend of all of the plots of Marey-Monge. The complex soils cover limestone, clay, sand and gravel. Vines are up to 120 years old, and harvesting spanned 11 - 18 September. Again, new barrels accounted for 20% here. The intensity and vinosity is more concentrated, that elegant cherry and briarwood freshness, and somehow a little more mineral character too. There's something quite steely in here. Great spiciness and edge on the palate, a real rapier-like sense of taut tannins and acids, and that tart edge to the berry fruit that is very grown-up. A lick of sour cherry acidity, this is long and serious. Tasted again a day after opening, the floral lift to the nose is accentuated and the wine drinks very well indeed. Decant if drinking now perhaps.
(2021) A three hectare plot on limestone with red clay, the vines are 20- to 80-year-old. It spent 18 months in 20% new barrels and was harvested 14th - 16th September 2019. A lovely and relatively pale garnet colour here, the nose is so attractive, a little truffle and woodland forest floor against ripe and mellow red fruits. A little floral lift too. gives a gentler impression than the Grands Esprits, but in the mouth there is the chocolaty support of the oak and the very ripe tannins. It has great juiciness and an edge of tart raspberry against the deep cherry and plum fruit. Supple, well-balanced and quite a powerful style. Very much approachable now, though with substantial potential.
(2021) Emmanuel says the plot this wine comes from has an excellent exposition. The wine is made with 60% whole clusters, perhaps that adds to the perfume and fragrance here, touches of old roses and wild scrubland herbs, a buoyant and ripe fruit character too, little truffle notes add even more interest. The mouth is silky and has a wonderful sweet depth of fruit, and although there is a creamy chocolate weight, especially with 14% alcohol, it has freshness and vitality and drinks beautifully. There was 20% new oak in this, the wine aged for 16 months in medium-toast barrel but with no punching down. Emmanuel likes to drink this young, with the fruit and freshness, but is very confident that it will cellar for 20 to 25 years.
(2021) There is no more than 25% new oak in this Grand Cru, and Emmanuel says he wants to avoid too much oaky influence. He also suggest that it will be at its peak in five years or so, but will cellar for twenty years minimum. It comes mainly from the En Charlemagne lieu-dit, and though very tight and young, some cedar and flint, and only a light vanilla creaminess comes through, golden apple and citrus is fresh and focused. In the mouth it becomes even more apparent that five years will benefit this wine: it has terrific, elegant concentration, no flabbiness, but there is sweet and ripe fruit weight on the mid-palate before a long, mineral-flecked core of citrus acidity running to the finish. A little creamy texture and flavour from the barrel, but this is all about fruit intensity and tensioning acidity at this stage.
(2021) Light gold/green in colour, the nose is immediately Meursault, and immediately appealing: a touch of Brazil nut creaminess, some confit lemon, buttery with a touch of apricot, some small floral nuances. On the palate there is an unctuous sense of richness to both flavour and texture, really sweet and ripe, touching on peach, even mango, but reeled-in by its ripe but decisive lime and creamy, fat lemon and orange acidity. It's a confident, fairly big-scaled Meursault, where a light smokiness, spice and vanilla rounds off all of the edges in a long, balanced and delicious wine. Sixteen months in oak for this, 25% new, and fermentation with wild yeasts lasted five months.
(2020) Only 1,800 bottles are produced of this cuvée, from a plot within a plot: half a hectare of the monopole vineyard, Clos Marey-Monge, identified as having one of the highest surface densities of clay in Burgundy. It has quite a rich, ruby colour, and a beautifully spicy and fragrant nose. There is a pot-pourri mix of florals and anise, Sandalwood and all sorts of exotic, incense-like aromas, with savoury red plum and small black fruits. Immediately a little more feminine than Pommard's normally quite sturdy character, but it has great presence. In the mouth there's a suave density to this - not just the creamy plushness of the smoothing oak, but an intensity to the fruit too. Sweet and solid, it's again a combination of full and glossy black fruits and more lifted raspberry and even pomegrante, slicked with a dark cocoa bean underpinning. There is good grip and savouriness that pushes into the finish, creamy and ripe tannin, but retaining lovely freshness. Long, pure, elegance with power, the fruit beautifully integrated into its savoury, taut balance. Available on allocation.