(2023) From a plot of 4.81 hectares on rocky, calcium-rich soils and 40- to 50-year old vines. The fruit was fermented in stainless steel, 80% as whole clusters, with several weeks maceration. Aged 15 months in French oak barrels (25% new), like the 2019 vintage it has compelling, bright red fruit aromas, bold cherries, raspberry and a hint of undergrowth and liquorice giving a firm aromatic edge. That intensity of fruit carries through to the palate, where I really enjoyed the tension between 'prettiness' of red fruits and the hint of sinew and structure from firm tannins and keen plum-skin acidity. A lovely, robust and yet absolutely elegant wine.
(2023) Micault is a 1.29 hectare plot within the Clos Marey-Monge, on pink sandstone. The wine is certified organic. Eighty percent of the grapes are whole-bunch vinified, then aged in barrel for 15 months, but only 15% new oak. Typical of the domaine's wines, it marries a juicy, unashamed depth of ripe red berry fruit with terroir notes of minerals and light smokiness. On the palate that energy from very delicate oak influence and ripe but refined tannins and acids gives beautiful mouthfeel and texture. This will cellar for a decade or more, but its balance and elegance mean it offers immediate gratification too.
(2023) An assemblage of all the parcels within Château de Pommard's walled and organically-farmed 'Marey-Monge' vineyard, fermentation took place in steel with 60% whole-clusters, before 15 months ageing in 20% new French oak barrels. As always with this property there's a sweet fruited solidity to the wine, aromas are spicy with pot-pourri notes of dried flowers and herbs, over dusty raspberry moving into black fruits. In the mouth the firm tannins of this young wine grip, the acidity adds another thread of sinew, but deep fruit is locked within. This will repay cellaring for sure, and may well notch up an extra point or two with time, but in its rich but firm style it is already delicious.
(2022) As with all of the wines from Carabello-Baum that I have tried, this is a plush and concentrated style of Burgundy, expressing spice, black fruit and liquorice, emphasised here by the Gevrey-Chambertin terroir and its undeniable structure. Intense black cherry on the nose, but also small floral nuances and a suggestion of meatiness beneath, it's a powerful but intriguing aromatic. In the mouth the tannins are striking and chocolate-smooth, there's a real edge of acid and savoury, quite gravelly character to the ripe, deep fruit. Tingling with spice in the long finish, its an intense and concetrated expression, and a very impressive one. Should cellar for 10 years easily.
(2022) Les Lavières is a south-facing Premier Cru on limestone-rich soils. This cuvée used 70% whole-clusters in fermentation followed by 16 months in French oak, 20% new. In the house style, it is a ripe and rich style, 14.5% alochol and plush, but there is lovely fragrance and a definite floral touch to the perfume, giving a real sense of elegance. In the mouth the fruit is all crushed raspberry and spice, that lovely fragrant style carried through with sweet red fruit, herbs and a hint of exoticism. The tannins and alcohol give weight and a sense of fleshy richness, the acid and a touch of gravelly terroir adding a keen edge, in a bold, big, but delightful wine.
(2022) From the marly-clay and limestone soils of this vineyard above the village of Santenay. The wine was whole-cluster pressed and fermented with indigenous yeasts in barrel before aging on fine lees for 16 months (20% new barrels). It has a seriously attractive nose, the almond and crushed oatmeal sheen of high quality oak over taut, lemony and lightly herb-touched fruit. In the mouth it is cool and clear, a running-water clarity to the acidity with touch of salty minerals and citrus, but there is that light toastiness and hint of more ripe stone fruit on the mid-palate. A delightful white Burgundy.
(2021) From a plot of 4.81 hectares on rocky, calcium-rich soils, the vines are 40- to 50-years old, harvested 11 - 13 September. Slightly more new oak (25%) in this cuvée than the others tasted. Lovely bright red fruit aromas, bold cherries and, a hint of raspberry moving into briar and touching clove and cinammon. A finely-wrought graphite element. Nicely fleshy ripe berries, the tannins here are powerful but also very ripe and creamy, along with that light herbal/spice note and the gentle tobacco smokiness of the barrels. The impression is powerful, but svelte and full, with excellent freshess. Delightful.
(2021) This wine is a blend of all of the plots of Marey-Monge. The complex soils cover limestone, clay, sand and gravel. Vines are up to 120 years old, and harvesting spanned 11 - 18 September. Again, new barrels accounted for 20% here. The intensity and vinosity is more concentrated, that elegant cherry and briarwood freshness, and somehow a little more mineral character too. There's something quite steely in here. Great spiciness and edge on the palate, a real rapier-like sense of taut tannins and acids, and that tart edge to the berry fruit that is very grown-up. A lick of sour cherry acidity, this is long and serious. Tasted again a day after opening, the floral lift to the nose is accentuated and the wine drinks very well indeed. Decant if drinking now perhaps.
(2021) A three hectare plot on limestone with red clay, the vines are 20- to 80-year-old. It spent 18 months in 20% new barrels and was harvested 14th - 16th September 2019. A lovely and relatively pale garnet colour here, the nose is so attractive, a little truffle and woodland forest floor against ripe and mellow red fruits. A little floral lift too. gives a gentler impression than the Grands Esprits, but in the mouth there is the chocolaty support of the oak and the very ripe tannins. It has great juiciness and an edge of tart raspberry against the deep cherry and plum fruit. Supple, well-balanced and quite a powerful style. Very much approachable now, though with substantial potential.
(2021) There is no more than 25% new oak in this Grand Cru, and Emmanuel says he wants to avoid too much oaky influence. He also suggest that it will be at its peak in five years or so, but will cellar for twenty years minimum. It comes mainly from the En Charlemagne lieu-dit, and though very tight and young, some cedar and flint, and only a light vanilla creaminess comes through, golden apple and citrus is fresh and focused. In the mouth it becomes even more apparent that five years will benefit this wine: it has terrific, elegant concentration, no flabbiness, but there is sweet and ripe fruit weight on the mid-palate before a long, mineral-flecked core of citrus acidity running to the finish. A little creamy texture and flavour from the barrel, but this is all about fruit intensity and tensioning acidity at this stage.
