Stockist/Retailer: chateaudepommard.com

(2021) There is no more than 25% new oak in this Grand Cru, and Emmanuel says he wants to avoid too much oaky influence. He also suggest that it will be at its peak in five years or so, but will cellar for twenty years minimum. It comes mainly from the En Charlemagne lieu-dit, and though very tight and young, some cedar and flint, and only a light vanilla creaminess comes through, golden apple and citrus is fresh and focused. In the mouth it becomes even more apparent that five years will benefit this wine: it has terrific, elegant concentration, no flabbiness, but there is sweet and ripe fruit weight on the mid-palate before a long, mineral-flecked core of citrus acidity running to the finish. A little creamy texture and flavour from the barrel, but this is all about fruit intensity and tensioning acidity at this stage.

(2021) Light gold/green in colour, the nose is immediately Meursault, and immediately appealing: a touch of Brazil nut creaminess, some confit lemon, buttery with a touch of apricot, some small floral nuances. On the palate there is an unctuous sense of richness to both flavour and texture, really sweet and ripe, touching on peach, even mango, but reeled-in by its ripe but decisive lime and creamy, fat lemon and orange acidity. It's a confident, fairly big-scaled Meursault, where a light smokiness, spice and vanilla rounds off all of the edges in a long, balanced and delicious wine. Sixteen months in oak for this, 25% new, and fermentation with wild yeasts lasted five months.

(2020) Only 1,800 bottles are produced of this cuvée, from a plot within a plot: half a hectare of the monopole vineyard, Clos Marey-Monge, identified as having one of the highest surface densities of clay in Burgundy. It has quite a rich, ruby colour, and a beautifully spicy and fragrant nose. There is a pot-pourri mix of florals and anise, Sandalwood and all sorts of exotic, incense-like aromas, with savoury red plum and small black fruits. Immediately a little more feminine than Pommard's normally quite sturdy character, but it has great presence. In the mouth there's a suave density to this - not just the creamy plushness of the smoothing oak, but an intensity to the fruit too. Sweet and solid, it's again a combination of full and glossy black fruits and more lifted raspberry and even pomegrante, slicked with a dark cocoa bean underpinning. There is good grip and savouriness that pushes into the finish, creamy and ripe tannin, but retaining lovely freshness. Long, pure, elegance with power, the fruit beautifully integrated into its savoury, taut balance. Available on allocation.