(2022) A Cru Barolo from this family estate, aged for over two years in large Slavonian oak casks. A firm, graphite and polished wood character here beneath taut, youthful black fruit, it is immediately concentrated and serious, but there's a floral, violet lift too in this young wine. The palate is equally polished and tight, the black fruit sinewy and dense, the very fine, authoritative tannins and acid balance suggesting cellaring will see this blossom over a decade or more.
(2022) Philippe Vermorel's Domaine de Rochemure Crémant is 100% Chardonnay from vineyards in the Beaujolais region, and is a remarkably dry, mineral and featherweight style. It has some biscuity quality, but the rush of lemony and fresh fruit, and zipping, mouth-watering acidity is delightfully crisp and gossamer-light. Perfect as an aperitif, base for a kir royale, or with fish and seafood.
(2022) From Valtellina in Lombardy, just north and east of Piedmont, and home to some very fine Nebbiolo wines (known locally as 'Chiavennasca'), that's the major component here along with small quantities of the local Pignola, Rossola and Brugnola varieties. This is a charmer: soft and translucent in colour, there's a mature truffle and sweet earth and tobacco fragrance, then a palate where the gentle sweetness of the Nebbiolo pushes through. Cherry is the dominant impression, both the sweet pulp of the flesh and grip and tang of the skins, and though vinification is in steel, there's a little spice and hint of nutty toast plus some firmness in the finish of a delightful wine.
(2022) A left-bank blend coming mostly from vineyards in St-Estèphe, a blend of Merlot, both Cabernets and Petit Verdot, with élévage in large barrels (30% new). With five years under its belt, it holds a youthful, solid colour, with meat-stock and black fruit aromas, an intriguing touch of Nori character and good depth with a wisp of tobacco. In the mouth it is substantial and fleshy, a savoury, very St-Estèphe wine, with a certain robustness, but high quality oak and a juicy black cherry acidity layering the finish. Punches above its weight this one.
(2022) Though he has vineyards in various of the Cru villages, apparently winemaker Philippe Vermorel rates this as his personal favourite. I can see why with its joyous, smile-inducing aromas, so sleek and bursting with firm black cherry and zippy raspberry, the merest touch of lipsticky, more floral lift in the background. On the palate it really is a smooth devil, copious fruit is layered from start to finish, with a lovely gentle balance of tannin and acidity barely ruffling the picture.
(2022) David Dudley-Jones describes this as "Barbaresco by any other name," coming from younger vines of the Crus Pora & Rio Sordo. Lovely pale to medium colour, but youthful, with a delicate nose of violets and old roses, something that reminds me strangely of candy floss, and then a nutty, chestnut note beneath. That complexity does continue on the palate, where really grippy young tannins and tart black cherry acidity frame succulent red plum and cherry, some leather and firm spices into a long finish, ending on fruit and acidity in lovely harmony.
(2022) Little brother to the superb 2016 'Binger Quartzit', there's a family resemblance here without a doubt, and at half the price this has massive appeal: the electric frisson of the Binger is dialled back for sure, but it shares the classic purity and lime and lemon zest focus, offering a delightfully dry, filigree Riesling experience that is very satisfying.
(2022) Musso produces its Barbaresco from its 10 hectares of family vineyards. Pale to medium Ruby in colour, the nose has crushed red berries, like cranberries and redcurrants, with floral tones and a certain peppery quality. In the mouth a fine, mineral-etched, dry and savoury character, the hint of juicy red fruit sweetness swept up in orangey acidity, that pepper again, and firm tannins adding a bit of sinewy grip.
(2022) Unoaked Chardonnay from clay soils, just south of the Mâconnaise, and a lovely, limpid wine reminiscent of the wines from further north. Pale yellow in colour with plenty of succulent fruit aromas, a little like spiced pears and with some interesting floral top notes too. In the mouth it hints at the tropical, peach and even touching on mango, but stays sharp and well-defined with crisp apple and citrus the finishing flavours. Nicely done at a modest price.
(2014) A Riesling Trocken, meaning 'dry' in German, this wine comes from the Pfalz, a more southerly German wine region where grapes have a little extra ripening power. It is very fresh, at the moment with a tiny spritz of Carbon dioxide on the tongue, but that is just its youth - this is a dry, still table wine. The 11.5% alcohol makes it very easy to drink, opening with aromas of fresh sliced apple and pear, a hint of citrus zest and of almond blossom - very spring like. On the palate it is just delicious. A fine core of acidity gives that crisp orchard fruit balance again of tartness and sweetness, with a lovely saline note adding a savoury aspect on the finish.
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