(2022) A little like the Amarone's of the Veneto, Governo is an ancient technique of making wines in Tuscany, partly from dried grapes. Made from 100% Sangiovese grown at 300 metres altitude, it spent a few months in used French oak barriques. Interesting, smoky and herbal nose here, a touch of leafiness and quite meaty tones to the black plum fruit. In the mouth there is plenty of juiciness, but a lean, gripping tannin adds a chewy and serious edge. Some cherry inflections to the acidity, and a concentrated finish.
(2022) A 50/50 blend of Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon for this Cru Bourgeois. I tasted the 2010 just last year (91-points) and though this has some time to go, it already appears to be an even better effort. There's an absolutely classic fragrance of cedar and pencil-shavings over savoury black fruits, touched with leafiness, game and subtle spices. In the mouth it is medium-bodied and beautifully pitched between that savoury, complex character of tobacco and leather, and a fresher fruit quality. Keen acidity gives excellent balance. Classic all the way, and surely has years of further cellaring potential.
(2022) Plan de Dieu is one of the Côtes du Rhône-Villages appellations, and this is a blend of very old vine Syrah, Carignan and Mourvèdre. It has a very appealing nose, filled with blueberry and spicy red plum fruit, forward and elegantly sprinkled with white pepper. In the mouth there's a really juicy, lip-smacking fruit quality, the 14.5% alcohol, chunky tannins and nicely-pitched acidity adding deep support. Please note, this 2018 vintage has sold out and the 2019 is now shipping.
(2022) You may not have come across the very small Premier Cru of Vau-Ligneau in the west of Chablis, this from 40-year-old Chablis vines on a family Domaine. It has seen some oak, that helping give a touch of depth to the colour, and just the gentlest nutty, almondy aspect on the nose. Otherwise, fruit is pristine and showing a little flintiness too. In the mouth it's a beautifully poised Chablis, hinting at nectarine ripeness on the mid-palate, but that's a fleeting moment as the sweep of juicy citrus etched with saline notes extends the finish.
(2022) This is a white Côtes-du-Rhône, 100% Viognier, from an estate which has been certified organic since 2011. It's a truly lovely Viognier, with enough 'heady' perfume of apricot and blossom, but then plenty of citrus and firmer, pear and apple freshness too. In the mouth it wears its 14% alcohol lightly, though that does help give this texture and weight, it stays crisp and cool through to the finish.
(2022) Esprit de Pavie is a Bordeaux AOC wine that blends 65% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 15% Cabernet Sauvignon coming from both the famous Château Pavie in Saint-Emilion, and nearby Château Clos L'Église in the Côtes de Castillon, which was purchased by Pavie's owner, Gerard Perse. There's an herbal twang to the fragrance, cedary and tobacco-like too, then a firm cherry and Asian plum fruit comes through. That firmness continues on the palate, a stripe if liquorice underpinning the black fruit, the wine finishing on food-friendly acidity.
(2022) I really enjoyed the 2019 vintage of this pitch-perfect white Burgundy, and am delighted to say the 2020 follows on very successfully. It has a similarly bright but succulent profile, a note of tangerine and lemon on the nose, but creamy too with an oatmeal sheen. The palate is medium-bodied, and while the peachy ripeness of fruit fills the mid-palate, that citrus and salts core of acidity keeps it fresh and mouth-watering into the finish.
(2022) A lovely and eminently approachable, Pinot Meunier-dominated grower Champagne, based on the 2016 vintage, with 40% of reserve wine from 2015 in the blend. It has a golden colour and only 5.5g/l dosage, but the ripeness and softness of the mousse and fruit profile make this elegantly sippable. There is some biscuity toast, but there's plenty of mid-palate fruit and a well-balanced finish with zippy acidity giving good length. Good value at under £22.
(2022) From a very good vintage in Bordeaux and with a handy 12 years already under its belt, this is a Merlot-dominated red. I was initially surprised to find it closed with a modern DIAM technical cork, but that is explained. The colour shows a little development but is still solid at the core. There's a hint of tinned plum tomato on the nose that gives a savoury character, a little spice too. In the mouth that spiciness of red and black fruit continues, not a lot of barrel component showing, but firm tannins are resolving nicely and the overall balance is good.
(2022) Made from 40-year-old vines and aged for 15 months in French oak barrels, this blends Grenache and Carignan with 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. All come from the high-elevation slate soils of the Priorat region, and synthetic chemicals are not used in the vineyards. It has a finely-wrought cherry, spice and floral nose, power beneath with more ripe black fruit character, but plenty of elegance. In the mouth an endive twist of liquoricy bitterness is lovely against sweetly ripe and intense, Amarone-like mid-palate fruit. The oak is polished and creamy, touching on chocolaty, and the finish with tight tannins and cherry acidity is lovely. One of the stars of this tasting.