(2024) Quite old vines here, and around 10% barrel fermentation for a Chablis that is restrained and perhaps lacks just a bit of the zing and kimmeridgean freshness of the best. But it is elegantly proportioned, showing cool but rounded fruitiness and a suggestion of summer blossom on the nose, then a creamy palate that just hints at salinity in the finish. Drinks well, and although there are no fireworks here, it is a fine village level wine.
(2022) Whilst I am reasonably familiar with the less expensive 'Von der Fels' Riesling from Rheinhessen's cult producer, Keller, what a treat to drink this single vineyard Großes Gewächs, a designation for the finest dry wines fron the equivalent of Grand Cru sites. Aromatically it has fabulous waxiness and ripe lime peel aromas, all flecked with leafy green herbs - dill maybe - but so pure. On the palate it is glacial, again that purity and ravishing mineral acidity, but that peachiness of the mid-palate gives sweetness with great elegance.
(2021) Similar colour, perhaps a touch more towards garnet than the 2016. A more fruity character compared to the singing florals of the 2015, a touch of smokiness and even a touch of sizzling bacon fat way in the background. Racy and delicious, with great peppery, spicy components as well as that crunchy fresh fruit. The mineral qualities and finesse of the acids make for a thrilling finish, ending with great spicy presence and length.
