(2017) This Blanc de Noirs sourced only from Grands and Premieres Cru villages spent some nine years slowly developing in Gosset's cellars. Bottled with only 5g/l of residual sugar, and made from 100% Pinot Noir, it has a burnished light gold colour and immediately involving aromas: it is meaty and dense, with pastry notes and lemon, but there's a sense of grip and concentration too. In the mouth it is a glorious mouthful of Champagne: concentrated, searingly intense, yet shimmering with light and elegance. A delicate, featherweight mousse and fine, long acid structure sees to that, the sheer weight of the initial attack tapering beautifully to a crisp, focused and precise finish.
(2016) Serious bangs per buck in this excellent, and now six-year-old wine from the newly trendy Bierzo region of northwest Spain. It has a bit of earth and plummy richness and roundness, suffused with wild berries but a hint of smoky minerals too. It has a nice sheen of supporting oak to the fresh but full fruit on the palate, where the juicy and crunchy vitality is perfectly poised.
(2016) I detect a little creamy oak influence (or is it just a richness from lees ageing perhaps?), but it is aromatic with orange and crisp autumn apple tones, a hint of nuttiness then juicy on the palate, a fresh core of lemony acidity, melon and more tangy citrus in the dry, refreshing finish.
(2014) Whilst the rest of the Gosset range looks very distinctive in its elegant antique-style bottles, the entry level cuvée, even with updated packaging for 2014, looks different and in many ways is different. A blend of 45% Pinot Noir, 40% Chardonnay and 15% Pinot Meunier, the dosage is 11g/l and whilst it has plenty of crisp and appley aromas, it opens up on the palate with a hint of sweet peach and lemon zest zing. The appeal is fairly straightforward, and whilst not as distinguished as some in the portfolio, it has good balance and combination of approachability and refined, racy freshness.
(2014) Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, with a little Pinot Meunier in this multi-vintage blend - which sometimes also has a proportion of the rarer Champagne grapes Fromenteau, Arbanne and Petit Meslier too. There's 8g/l dosage. Rich, nutty stuff with bruised pear and apple nutty oxidation in this cuvée . The palate has that vinous, super-charged character, but retains a slippery freshness and lovely crisp, dry apple acidity against that nuttiness. The relatively high proportion of Reserve wines used by Gosset give this lovely developed complexity from the word go.
(2014) Launched recently, this all-Chardonnay cuvée is sourced from the Montagne de Reims as well as top villages of the Côte des Blancs. Malolactic is blocked, the dosage is only 7g/l, but the wine does rest on the lees for four years before disgorgement. This is in Gosset's more open, rich and nicely oxidative style, with lots of bruised fruit and nutty notes and a formidable orange-fruit intensity. Delightful freshness and zip on the palate, slicing through the finish with citrus and clean, mineral and apple intensity but real finesse too.
(2014) The Rose is composed of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir, with the addition of 7% of red Pinot Noir from Bouzy and Ambonnay in a rosé made by 'assemblage' rather than the skin contact method of 'saignée'. It spends four years on the lees before disgorgement. What a lovely, bold raspberry and softer strawberry fruit it presents on the nose, with a hint of Pinot earthiness and truffle and a little yeasty note. There's a nicely drying nip of tannin on the palate, but lots of Pinot character with truffle and soft red berries, and fine balancing acidity.
(2014) Célébris is sourced from top Grand Cru villages, a blend of slightly more Chardonnay than Pinot Noir (52% as opposed to 48%). It is Extra Brut with only 5g/l dosage and once again, malolactic fermentation was blocked. From one of Champagne's greatest vintages, this has a bold golden colour and is immediately tight and fantastically mineral on the nose. There are hints of toffee and a lovely lime and pear-skin richness giving this a powerful aromatic character. It is massively concentrated and indeed powerful on the palate. It's a young wine with huge intensity, tight and appley fruit. but shimmering length and such cool precision. It is steely, almost like a Grand Cru Chablis, with such beautiful length and balance that it can be admired now, but will undoubtedly improve with cellaring.