(2019) Made very simply - "crush, press, ferment," says Murray, then aged on lees for three months. Gooseberry and a touch of flint and elderflower, an attractive green-tinged fruit profile. The palate has a light smoke and earthy quality, good texture, lots of crunchy apple and pear, streaking lemon acid is a really nice style.
(2017) An assemblage with some wine vinified as red Pinot Noir in the blend, the overall Pinot Noir content is around 60%-75%. There's a delightful swirl of smokiness to this, lots of small redcurrant fruit that is dry and concentrated, but it is sweet too as it strikes the palate, lovely delineation, the fruit driving it against a quite creamy mousse, and a long and balanced finish.
(2017) A surprisingly high, almost marzipan-like note to this, a touch of elderflower and lightly tropical fruit character is quite arresting. The palate has a Brazil nut roundness, open and charming, easy to appreciate, but it does finish with exemplary freshness.
(2017) A rosé from Franschhoek in South Africa, which blends Bordeaux varieties and Syrah, and 10% of which was fermented in French oak barriques. The colour is a pale-to-medium salmon pink, and there's a bold, dry, small red berry fruitiness that leads on to quite a grippy, authoratitive palate for a rosé, concentrated and with a bit of grip and tannin to offset the soft berry flavours and cleansing acidity. A good gastronomic pink for salmon or paella perhaps.
(2017) The largest brand in the UK at present. A much more appley nose than the Devil's Corner, the hint of toffee and more richness, but stays pretty bright despite the sour lemon dry juiciness of the finish.
(2016) Ian Riggs is the winemaker of this terrific Semillon, described to me as "The best of the best," and bearing his initials - 'Ian Leslie Riggs'. Made in all stainless steel, pressed off the skins immediately it's a super selection of wines given extended bottle ageing. Taut minerals, wax and beeswax, the lemon rind hint of fatness. The palate has a vibrant, intense, bright and sherbet character. Great shimmering length.
(2016) Cool-climate wines are becoming increasingly sought-after by wine lovers, and England is well placed to capitalise. For now it is really only sparkling wines that manage to deliver world-class in any real volume, whilst table wines often struggle to marry quality and price. This top Chardonnay from Gusbourne is fermented and aged in older French oak and has an oatmeal creaminess and gently nutty character allied to citrus and green apple. On the plate it is light and focused on a straightforward lemony fruit, a little of that barrel-derived richness and texture offsetting the acidity of the finish. It is for me a touch dilute through the mid-palate, and whilst a really good wine of some finesse, my enthusiasm is just tempered by it's £22 price tag.
(2016) A smokiness and meatiness, dry and savoury. The black fruit is inky and dense, lovely ripeness. So much pepper and spice and liquorice density and bittersweetness in a profound and concentrated expression of Malbec, though I would have asked for a little more light and shade.
(2012) A little honey, a little oatmeal, peach and nectarine aromatics. Lovely pate, limpid and juicy, with a deal more of that limpid, nectarine pulp and juicy tangerine acidity. Lovely quality here. Delicious and quite full bodied.
(2012) Pays d'Oc. Fermented in concrete and steel, with some staves for ageing. Very good Viognier aromatics, a touch of peachy lift, a certain lemon confit character and a touch of herby quality. The palate is quite full, and whilst not fantastically complex, it has good citrus, spice and a touch of melon skin and lemon peel bite.