(2017) The fabulous toast and opulent depth that DP pulls out of the bag vintage after vintage - and after nine years of ageing of course - shines through, seductive coffee and chocolate notes underpin flashing bright fruit, a tinge of green herbs, then brioche on the palate, the thrilling blend of richness and layered texture with rapier-like, electrically-charged acidity.
(2016) The alpine twin of Sassicaia, this is a Bordeaux blend from the far north of Italy, and an estate owned by Marchese Carlo Guerrieri Gonzaga who spent time at Sassicaia and employed the same consultant to oversee this wine, winner of 13 consecutive 'Tre Bicchieri' awards from Gambero Rosso since its first vintage in 1982. At six years old it is still intense and youthful, a firm liquorice and bloody-edged keen black fruit on the nose. In the mouth the suppleness is impressive, with dry, fine but grippy tannins around a ripe fruit core. Balanced, with an elegant cherry freshness to the acidity, that does not detract from the seriousness and very Bordeaux-like combination of authoritative structure and yet hints of a charm that will unfold over 10 to 15 years.