(2017) Made from 100% reserve wines, this first release is a blend of six years: 2010, 2009, 2008, 2006, 1996 and 1988. The dosage is just 3g/l and the blend is 50% Pinot Noir, around 33% Chardonnay and the rest Pinot Meunier. Lovely hint of age, a gentle meat and smoke, vinous, with creaminess of texture, the palate dense and long, very vinous again, almost like an aged white Burgundy. I detected a lower pressure in this wine and indeed it is confirmed that it is bottle at just 4.5 bars rather than 6 bars for the yellow label. There is peachiness and lemon zest delicacy, but it is a fine, rounded food wine.
(2016) Meaty, toasty, tightly wound but such obvious concetration. A touch of green herbs and flint coming through. The palate has delicious concentration again, and it is dry, the squirt of bitter lemon against that ozone and saline richness and austerity, suggesting this needs some time. Huge length and composure, a weighty and deep wine with profound character for ageing.
(2014) The Cave de Château de Chénas is a co-op, founded in 1934 and now representing 110 growers. This is their prestige cuvée of Beaujolais smallest Cru, Chénas, aged in oak for 10 months. Purple/ruby in colour, there's an immediate floral delicacy here, a soft, fresh fruitiness and suggestion of openness. It has a touch of bubblegum too. On the palate the tannins come as something of a surprise, really grippy and striking the palate before the cherry and blueberry fruit emerges. Plenty of acidity and crunch in this wine, spices, and the warmth of the oak and inherent sweetness of the fruit leaving it moreish in the finish.