(2024) Having first planted this variety in a coastal vineyard in Sonoma, that proved too cold to ripen this variety, even though it famously reaches it's peak in the Atlantic-influenced Galician region of Spain. It was re-planted and thrives in the Russian River Valley. Fermented with indigenous yeast and with extended time on the lees, there's a delightfully floral aspect to this - somewhere between floral and leafy, soft green herbs, firm white fruit aromas. Nicely textured, this burst with juicy citrus on the palate, but there's plenty of dazzling acidity. Something a little like green fig shows ripeness, in a fresh and delightful Albariño.
(2024) Vergelegen labelThis is not the current vintage of this wine (the 2017 is the one most retailers seem to be stocking), but it just shows how beautifully the wine ages over several years. From an estate very much focused on Bordeaux as a model, it spent 17 months in barrels from top French coopers, 40% new. When I last tasted it in 2019 I noted "serious structure, the deep black fruit bound by firm, gripping tannins and decisive acidity," and while the tannins have mellowed a little since, that wonderful balance of the wine, and that wonderful combination of fruit and structure remains. The intervening five years have also developed its tertiary aromas suggesting game and sweet, damp earth among the more plush black fruits. The current vintage can be had for £17-£18 quite widely, which is surely very attractive for a wine of considerable pedigree and cellaring potential. Stockist and price quoted for the most recent vintage.
(2023) Amarone is the epitome of special occasion wines for many people, so this blockbuster is my choice for the 2023 festive season. Composed of classic grapes of the region, all grown on calcium-rich Marl soils, it weighs in with a hefty 16.5% alcohol. It is of course made from fruit that have been dried, in which time the grapes lose around 30% of their weight, but gain in sugar and concentration. Once fermented, the wine spent three years in Slavonian oak barrels. It is pretty sensational stuff: aromatically, think of those dark chocolate enrobed cherries, liqueur-like and deeply flavoured. There's a wisp of smoke and vanilla, maybe a touch of somthing fragrant and floral. In the mouth it is silky and full, and despite the alcohol and richness of the wine, a real sense of freshness remarkably enough - even of lightness and delicacy. With hard cheese (maybe even Stilton), beef, game or perhaps dark chocolate dessert, it would be sensational. Watch the video for more information.
(2023) This blend includes Viognier skins co-fermented with the Shiraz, and the blend was matured for 14 months in 23% new French oak hogsheads, the balance in one year and older French oak. There's more pepper here than in the Octavius, but also more lift of florals and even peach, presumably from the Viognier. In the mouth it is super-ripe and sweet, a substantial wine with texture and a depth of red and black, smooth and supple fruit. There is plenty of spice here: clove and tobacco, a keen edge of acidity and quite creamy tannins to offset the bittersweet finish of fruit skins and cocoa.