(2020) Meaty, dark, not quite as expressive and open as the 30-year-old, the palate a hugely concentrated but comparatively monolithic wine, chocolate and caramel, that tang of Seville orange marmalade, shellac and immense length and concentration. Magnificent and profound stuff without any doubt, though the 30-year-old has more accommodating charms. Several merchants offer this in-bond, by the six-bottle case