(2018) Lovely Chardonnay freshness, an almond and gentle mealy quality, that touch of Umami meatiness is there from the long lees ageing. In the mouth deliciously mouthfilling, a little sweeter and more fruity in character than the William Deutz 2007 tasted before it. Lovely lemon and juicy red apple acidity, but that creaminess is there.
(2018) Interestingly, this 2002 Amour has a little more of the Cuvée William character perhaps, a touch more austere than the 2006, white flower and citrus, the almond and oatmeal still there, but a little leaner aromatically, arguably more serious. The palate is superb, a touch of spice and tobacco almost, creamy and caramel notes, a more luscious texture and concentration, then the juicy citrus and tangy zestiness comes through so beautifully.
(2018) Much less creamy in character on the nose, more austere, a little more taut and perhaps slightly more herbal, with that streak of savoury and lemony meatiness, again a little nutty character. In the mouth a very classic style, a very gastronomic style, in contrast to Amour 2006’s charming fruitiness. Superb structure and complexity. But the Amour is so lovely...
(2017) Deutz rosé is mostly PInot Nor from the Montagne de Reims, with a touch of Chardonnay. It has a very delicate and attractive peachy-pink colour, the nose creamy with small red berry fruits but a certain biscuity note too, not always found in pink Champagnes. In the mouth it is vibrantly packed with reducrrant, raspberry and crisply defined dry red fruits, but it is ripe and sweet-edged too, the delicate mousse and fine acidity balancing beautifully. With a touch of chocolate or coffee adding roundness, the finish is quite intense, but never losing that elegance and delicacy.
(2016) What a treat to taste this wine on release, having been so impressed (97 points) by a pre-release tasting at the Quinta in 2011. The nose of the 2001 Naçional is still sensational in its soaring, floral and Maraschino cherry brightness, the spices and the depth of chocolaty, smooth richness, tar and tobacco nuances and the solidity of the fruit. On the palate, still so impressive in the purity and supple, balanced finesse, so dense and smooth in the delivery of its blue/black fruit and Christmas cake spice and Agen prune richness, but the tight tannins so elegantly constraining any sense of obvious ripeness, the acidity balancing the huge core of sweetness so effortlessly. Yes, a Nacional that's as great in the bottle as the barrel, and which is probably close to immortal.
(2016) Full bunch pressing, then 50/50 between tank and second year barrels. Aged for two years. Delicious hint of vanilla, of almond and oatmeal, but a fine purity of custard apples and citrus. Plenty of concentrated, pure spice-touched fruit, apples and pastry, but a lovely salty definition, the length and precision matched by natural density. Long and persistent finish. Yield for the Grands Crus is around 45hl/ha, as opposed to 55hl/ha for 1er Cru and 60hl/ha for Chablis.
(2016) Again there is a flintiness to this, a touch of ripe, almost cabbagy, vegetal note, with a ripe fruit beneath. The palate has lots of fruit sweetness and charm. The richness and ripeness is notable, with an almost oily viscosity and weight. Delicious and so different to the Vaillons again.
(2016) By contrast to the 2009, from a very early vintage, hot and ripe. A blend of four different Corton parcels. Fine, attractive colour with ruby and a touch of blood and brick at the rim. Very delicate subtle complexity, a touch of dried blood and tobacco or dried herbs, and still quite bold red fruits. Delicious freshness on the palate, with a smooth, refined cherry fruitiness and although there is obvious ripeness in this hot year, it has a lovely edgy and briar freshness and little endive and cardamom notes. Very long and fine.
(2016) Lovely calm and harmonious nose, with soft smokiness and ripe, rich fruits. Such delicious sweetness and resolution here, with all the coffee and red fruits, but not as striking as the Vigne Saint or even the Vosne Romanées, it is lighter with less substance but has such lovely layered intensity and such fine tannins and acidity that I think this might just be in a slightly dumb phase – it is really very good, but perhaps will be better - and deserve a higher score - in a couple of years.
(2016) Very youthful in colour after some 2010s, with perfume and a sense of lightness than I felt in the 2012 tasted earlier. Complex touches or red liquorice and chewy, fleshy plum and raspberry bright fruits, and a very fine and smooth tannin structure. There is power here again, there is concentration, but the freshness sets this apart from the 1er crus and the long, lightly spicy fruit filled finish.