(2023) From vineyards near Toledo, that are organically certified and sit at an elevation of 800 metres. Primary stuff, with a bright crimson colour and clear, unoaked berry aromas. Possibly a little carbonic maceration here (?) giving a sappy character too. The palate walks a nice line between sweet fruit, an earthy, dry and spicy savouriness and pert cherry acidity. A good all-rounder this, for quaffing or with lamb or a bowl of chilli.
(2023) An extra half a percentage point of alcohol here compared to the 2020, and there's a really luscious, almost tutti-frutti brightness to the fruit, a real juiciness here and certainly more primary feeling that the 2018. Lots of pithy lemon and grapefruit slicing through the lychee and peach of the palate, a little flinty edge adding to the acid impression. Bottled in December 2020, so almost a year on oak and eight months in bottle. pH 3.11 and acidity 6.2 g/l.
(2022) I see I first recommended this wine way back in 1999, talking then about the 1997 vintage. Here we are 23 years on and the 2020 rendition is just as lovely. It comes from the high country of Eden Valley, with vineyards up to 400 metres altitude, and a from vineyard dedicated to Riesling. The nose streaks with fresh juicy lime and a delicate blossom undertone, immediately full of finesse but with the promise of fruit aplenty. That promise is kept on the palate, the basiclly dry wine flooding the mid-palate with a fat limey fruit and teasing peachiness, before the taut acidity sparkles into the finish. Watch the
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(2021) This outstanding wine is expensive, but I have to say, is worth the price if you can afford it. Made from the oldest plots of Gewurz on high slopes, picked late, it is aged for six years in an abandoned silver mine, 6,500 feet up, and four kilometres deep into the mountainside. It pours a pale gold colour, and the bouquet is immediately arresting, with classic rose petal and lychee perfume, a touch of honey, and a touch of something lightly leafy and herbal. In the mouth there is glycerine richness and weight, but the punch of the vibrant and still very pretty fruit comes through, tropical and candied, but with a core of shimmering acidity that never loses focus. 1,200 bottles produced. Note that price and stockist is for the previous vintage at time of review.
(2020) From vineyards in Castellina in Chianti Classico, this is mostly Sangiovese with 5% Colorino. It has classic Chianti aromas, sour dark cherry and firm plums, with hints of smoke and spice, and a definnite cedary character. In the mouth it is a firm style of wine: tannins quite grippy and lots of tart black cherry acidity, but it fleshes out on the mid-palate. The dark fruits are savoury and spicy, and it finishes with good balance.
(2020) Gimblett Gravels A tiny bit reduced, quite a high tobacco ash and cherry, a little cherry note, but very attractive. Juicy, tangy, has a lighter more crisp style, but successful with a big blast of tangy cherry fruit and acidity. Price and stockist quoted are for a previous vintage at time of review.
