(2019) I loved my visit to Porseleinberg
a few year ago, so great to taste a new vintage of this intriguing wine with its floral character. 100% whole bunch fermented, two months in concrete eggs and foudre. There is something flinty and slaty about the nose, a wild, earthy character, with the florals continuing, lots of tannin, a bit of rustic grip, but such a lovely mouthfeel, juicy but with an authenticity and touch of roughening edges that finishes spicy and long.
Firm and juicy, the touch of tight briar and leafy character, but stays fresh and tight, only old oak used. The 20% Gamay adds a dry tannin and a delicate cherry freshness, finishing with a bit of roughening tannin and a clean acidity. Price and stockist quoted at time of review is for the 2015 vintage.
(2016) Lovely fragrance of quality oak here, a touch of coffee, but mostly about exotic spices and Sandalwood, the fruit full and rich beneath, highly inviting and promising. A real big mouthful of cassis and glossy black plum, the tannin are fruity and dry, but the flesh of the fruit and the spice of the barrel are delicious. Long and layered, this is impressive Cru Bourgeois, with great length and the sweetness inherent in the fruit persisting.
(2016) A little more perfume here than the 2011, some cherry skins and a plummy fruit again, but such a welterweight of tannin in the mouth at present, just loads of structure and grip, spicy, meaty, the grip of tannin and oak just a little too strident for enjoyment at this stage. Needs time for sure.
(2016) Not yet released, this barrel sample showed smokiness and a slightly raw oak character at this stage, a little resinous, but a seam of rich black fruit beneath and a definite sense of chocolaty density and richness. Real power and structure here, the meaty core of this is pretty massive – these are big, serious, very structured wines, but not over-extracted. Price shown for the 2012 vintage at time of review. Score is provisional.
(2016) Very little new oak, but 10 months in barrel. Low pH. Has toasted oatmeal richness, with wheaty touches, a little honey and the fruit subtle and apple and citrus but really attractive. The palate has delicious fruit ripeness and sweet mid-palate fruit, but finishes with lovely clarity, just a hint of the saltiness.
(2016) No new oak, aged in older barrels for 14 months. For me a little closed at this stage, a dark wine with tight black fruit, but not hugely aromatic, just a touch of bacon fat perhaps, a touch of garrique herbs come through. The palate has a really nice, smooth palate flooded with creamy red fruits, such plushness to the tannins, but very nicely balanced between that creaminess and the light dustiness, and good acidity.
(2016) From the middle of the Grand Cru and limestone soils with lots of stones. Really striking nose, the earth and stones so prominent on the nose, with some vegetal qualities and also some fleshy passion fruit and yellow plum. The palate has lovely poise and roundness, with fresh acidity and intense creamy length with touches of almond and oatmeal. Tangy orange and lemon gives punch to the finish.
(2015) A sophisticated Pinot Grigio from the cool coastal vineyards of the Casablanca Valley, this has loads of aromatic character unlike some bland versions of this variety. Sparky with greengage and hints of elderflower, and lots of crunchy apple and lime aromatics. In the mouth it becomes much more tropical, and I believe there's a bit of residual sugar here too, giving this a full and luscious character, whilst it has spice, texture and acidity. A big blast of orange finishes in style. That sweetness and verve would make it ideal with spicy Thai and Szechuan dishes.
(2010) 2,000 cases only, fermented and aged in French oak, the top white. Nice cashew and almond notes, with some apple and riper, more melony fruit.