Stockist/Retailer: Roberson

(2021) Made from vines that are 60 years old on average, and quite different from the white label, made with wild yeasts and with lees ageing. Distinctive,  slightly more wild and herbal aromas, pungent, smoky and flinty, lemon rind and peach stones. The palate has a a Chablis-like character, again that flint, ripe apple and lemon, a full texture and quite slippery, oily mouthfeel with excellent concentration, length, and a saline, mouthwatering finish.

(2018) From winemaker Hervé Fabré, who has spent decades making Malbec in Argentina before buying this estate in Cahors, in his French homeland. It's a wine that has soaked up its oak barrel-ageing effortlessly, the nose dominated by blueberry and cassis, a dark black plum edge, and lovely notes of Malbec's more floral and feminine side too, elegant, peppery and gently lifted. Like its little brother, the Mission de Picpus, the super-fruity, peachy edge to the palate is delightful, here set against much more substantial tannins, darker, more savoury fruit, and good acid structure, suggesting this will age well for a decade or more.

(2018) It's an interesting 'back to his roots' story for French winemaker Hervé Fabre, synonymous with Malbec from Argentina where has made wine for over 30 years, including his well-known Viñalba label. He has recently taken over an estate in Cahors, the European home of Malbec, and the first two wines from it are now being stocked by the retailer Roberson, an excellent Cahors destined to age labeled Prieuré De Cénac, and this more approachable wine that retails for £5 less. It's a wine that expresses that lovely Malbec 'lift' very well, violet, cassis and even some fragrant peach notes, before a palate that carries through some of that peach juice-edged character in the crisp black fruit, grippy, but fine Cahors tannins and juicy and fresh acidity. Watch the video for more information and food-matching ideas. On offer at £11.99 at time of review.

(2016) At 22 years old the Haut-Brion 1994 has a broad amber rim, and a red oxide colour. On the nose there is plenty of game and forest floor, briary character, graphite and pencil-shavings, and a sweet black berry fruit is there in the mix. In the mouth it has marvelous, blood-streaked and mineral character: true Graves, with the savoury black fruit touched by olive and game, the tannins very refined and now quite modest, and the alacrity of good natural acidity and its lowly 12.5% alcohol shining through. It perhaps lacks the final ounce of generosity to command the highest score, and it is hard to say whether more time in the cellar will be rewarded, but it has a relatively austere beauty and is a terrific wine that oozes class from first sip to last.