(2024) LabelThe massively popular Whispering Angel from Cave d'Esclans is a global phenomenon, but it is just one of several premium rosés made by this Provence-based producer. Majority  owned by LVMH, the range includes both estate wines and wines made from fruit sourced from local growers.

Though their £100 per bottle Garrus is a game-changer for the rosé sector (latest vintage to be reviewed soon), I always think this, the first of the range made from estate-grown fruit, is where Esclans moves into more serious fine wine territory.

The Château d’Esclans is a blend of Grenache and Rolle, fermented in a combination of steel and 600-litre oak barrels. Pale and peachy pink, the creaminess and very gentle sheen of oatmeal from the barrels adds a luxurious touch to the pert stone fruit and hint of redcurrant. The palate too has texture and creamy weight, and while filled with supple and smooth fruit, there's a bit of grip here and no shortage of balancing acidity. It's a rosé that doesn't want to be over-chilled, and will match mildly spicy foods as well as salmon or trout. Note that at time of writing, North & South Wines has this on sale by the six-bottle case, bring the per bottle equivalent close to £30.

(2024) Marimar says she experimented with a Tempranillo for a decade before deciding quality was right. This, with seven years under its belt, is glorious with a beautiful quality of oak from 12 months in French oak barrels, 50% new, coopered by Magreñán from the Vosges forest. It was bottled in August 2018. This has a fabulous nose, bloody and game-streaked over really ripe, deep berry fruit, a slick of chocolate underpinning. The palate has bountiful fruit, depth and texture with that touch of roasted coffee bean adding plushness. A Rioja Reserva of the highest level would stand alongside this, and it does have that extra ounce of Californian fruit intensity perhaps.
(2023) Forget the oceans of cheap 'blush' Zinfandel produced in California. This red wine grape is also capable of deep, big-scaled, full-throttle reds of which this 15.4% alcohol behemoth is one example. From old, old vines in Lodi - up to 120 years old - it is barrel fermented and aged. Inky-dark crimson, The nose is smoothly suffused with chocolate and berries, a little floral top note adding interest. In the mouth it is luscious and full. It has to be said that the alcohol is well-handled; it's there alright, adding some heat and volume, but the plushness of the fruit and lip-tingling spice and acidity is a counter-weight. Not for everyone, but if you like the sound of it, it's a wine that delivers.