(2020) A touch of gold to the straw colour and lovely, streaming small bubbles. On the nose there is brioche and hazelnut, but a delightfully bready yeastiness, golden delicious and a crisper note of Asian pear and citrus. That focus tighten up even more on the palate, despite a great sweetness and ripeness to the fruit, and a healthy level of dosage, the rounding of waxy lemon and apple skins also gives bite, with beautifully judged acidity into the finish. A terrific wine from one of Champagne's best recent vintages.
(2016) Nice deep and dense colour, orange on rim, initially quite gamy on opening, meat stock and a touch of almost bretty character but over 10 minutes that has almost disappeared, leaving much more cigar box and graphite, classic and mineral with a core of taut black fruit. Glorious in the mouth: fairly lean in style, that is, no excess baggage here, just a tight and meaty core of black fruit and roasted meat, chestnut and a hint of cherry. Fresh, with elegant acidity, a fairly noteable tannin still. Delicious and I think it may plateau for quite some time.