(2022) Last year's Les Clans was a fabulous wine that I ranked more less equally with the Garrus, and I have to say this 2020 is equally compelling. The blend is Grenache, Syrah and the white Vermentino, the wine fermented and aged 10 months in oak. I detect the creamy, quality but subtle oak across the aromas, but there's a raft of delightful small red berry fruit that still dominates the nose. The palate shows that layered, complex subtlety, delicate but so intense, the frut and mineral, stony acid core combining to extend the finish.
(2022) There is no denying the concentration and serious intent of this 2020 edition of Garrus. A blend of the best parcels of Grenache, Syrah and Vermentino, it was fermented and aged 10 month in French oak 600-litre 'demi-muids'. Taut and mineral on the nose, tasted blindfolded this would be judged a serious, complex white wine I am sure, save for a tell-tale whisper of small, precise red berry fruits and a hint of sweet earth and spice. The palate is quite strict, the tension of the citrus and salts acidity and a little grippy tannin, agains red fruits that are constrained, but one can almost sense a straining at the leash, waiting to blossom more fully. Long, balanced but concentrated, I'd tuck this away for a few years for sure.
(2021) Festooned with certificates on the back label to prove this is organic, Fairtrade, vegan-friendly, carbon-neutral and more, this is a wine from the eco-minded Emiliana in Rapel Valley, Chile, and more importantly perhaps, it is delicious. Around 20% was aged in oak barrels to add an extra layer of creamy vanilla on top of the deep, brightly cherry-fruited aromas and flavours, silky on the palate with creamy tannins and moderate acidity, it does have some depth, hints of mocha, and is a cracking little wine for under £9. Watch the video for food-matching suggestions and more information.
(2021) What a fabulous wine this DP 2006 is, from a generally dry and warm vintage. There's a fabulously flinty, seal-salt and minerals quality on the nose, the wine immediately suggesting power and great concentration. It is gently toasty, all those complex reductive notes making for endlessly fascinating aromatics. In the mouth it is taut, intense and equally concentrated, but this is not a brawny wine; instead the sinew connects clean, powerful lemon rind and creamy fruit notes that have a certain fat, but no excess. It's a wine that edges on phenolic, with some tannin giving real authority, but somehow it is charming too with its balance and fruit purity. A terrific DP.
(2021) From 25-year-old vineyards of Gingin clone Chardonnay, this is whole-bunch pressed into larger French oak barrels and fermented with wild yeasts. It was fermented and aged nine months, with 40% of the barrels new. The inclusion of 'solids', the various compounds from the grape matter of the whole bunches, immediately gives this a lot more flintiness, toast and notes of seeds and herbs, with fine orchard fruit coming through. On the palate the drive of the pithy lemon and grapefruit is mouth-watering, a real energising blast that cuts through the peachier mid-palate. The oak diffuses the effect of the saline and citrus acidity very nicely in the finish, in a wine that is a bit of show-stopper, and packed with personality.
(2021) Bott-Geyl farms organically and this Riesling is organic- and biodynamic-certified. Aromatically it has a touch of kerosene and beeswax, distinctively Riesling, with some floral notes and the crunch of juicy apples. In the mouth, is it just off-dry? Certainly the finish is dry and balanced, but there is a sweetness to the fruit on the mid-palate certainly, with a free-flowing clear fruit profile that gives way to a pithy citrus edge in the finish.
(2021) From the edge of the Atacama dessert and one of  Chile's cooler, coastal regions, Limarí, this is a gorgeously fragrant wine, with classic floral, apricot and ripe pear aromas, followed by  medium-bodied palate of succulent stone fruits backed up by a juicy, ripe lemon acidity. There's a creaminess to the texture and certain silliness, but the wine stays vivid and clear into the finish.
(2021) A beautifully fragrant red Burgundy from this family domaine who practice organic agriculture, the grape foot trodden and the wine fermented with wild yeasts before being matured in oak barrels 10 months. It is a beautifully aromatic wine, briar and old roses, a lift of  flowers and gently stemmy, hessian character. There's fruit too of course, succulent cherry and plum and great fruit sweetness in the mouth, black fruits, but not at all dense, the fine acidity and the tightly-grained tannins, as well as a little chocolaty weight of the barrels, is really lovely.
(2021) Cereza is the variety here, coming from a vineyard planted in 1940 on sandy soils, farmed organically and fermented in concrete 'eggs' with natural yeasts. Unusually for a red wine, it does not go through malolactic fermentation. The grape skins are also removed part-way through fermentation to give a very pale, deep rosé colour as much as red, offering herbal and underripe cherry aromas, subtle and earhty, a light undergrowth character too. In the mouth it has that higher acid style that reminds me of some red Vinho Verde made from Vinhao, though mid-palate sweetness of fruit emerges, cherryish again, with a very light finish of negligible tannin and fresh, juicy acidity. Very unusual, and for me very enjoyable if approached with an open mind. Watch the video for more information and use the wine-searcher link for lots of other independent stockists.
(2021) Classic Chablis, only 12.5% alcohol and fresh as a daisy, this is unoaked Chardonnay from a family domaine that does not show the flinty character associated with the Kimmeridgean soils of some Chablis vineyards, but does have the hallmarks of zipping freshness, sweet and ripe fruit, but always sliced through by its acidity and sheerness. Elegant, subtle, as I say proper classic Chablis that doesn't shout, but speaks very confidently. Heaven-sent for fish and shellfish, watch the video for more information.