(2016) I just love the unforced, natural concentration of this Pinot Noir from vineyards neighbouring Pommard. It's the epitome of an iron fist in a cashmere glove, as gentle bracken and cherry flavours flatter, before a stripe of intense concentration, liquorice and endive is revealed. It's core has concentrated acidity and tannins, whilst those crisp red fruit flavours and sappy, young twig freshness is energising. The opposite of blockbuster, but hugely pure and decisive, it should cellar five years+.