13/02/2017 – Michael Gindl, Buteo 12, Grüner Veltliner 2012

(2017) It's still very much niche, but the 'natural wine' category has emerged over the past decade or so to create a new category of wine, like this one, grown organically (and in this case biodynamically), made with skin contact and without laboratory yeasts or added sulphur. A cloudy yellow/orange colour, the nose has yeastiness and a little wheat beer note, a fat lemony fruitiness, and all sorts of straw and light earthy characters. In the mouth it has texture and a shimmering core of mineral and lemon fruit and acidity, unfruity as is the way of these wines, but layered with intriguing and complex nuances. It's not for everyone, but it's a good example of this genre. Watch the video for more information.

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