Where Whispering Angel meets fine wine.
Château d’Esclans, Côtes de Provence Rosé 2022
Provence, France, Dry Rosé, DIAM, 13.5% abv
The massively popular Whispering Angel from Cave d'Esclans is a global phenomenon, but it is just one of several premium rosés made by this Provence-based producer. Majority owned by LVMH, the range includes both estate wines and wines made from fruit sourced from local growers.
Though their £100 per bottle Garrus is a game-changer for the rosé sector (latest vintage to be reviewed soon), I always think this, the first of the range made from estate-grown fruit, is where Esclans moves into more serious fine wine territory.
The Château d’Esclans is a blend of Grenache and Rolle, fermented in a combination of steel and 600-litre oak barrels. Pale and peachy pink, the creaminess and very gentle sheen of oatmeal from the barrels adds a luxurious touch to the pert stone fruit and hint of redcurrant. The palate too has texture and creamy weight, and while filled with supple and smooth fruit, there's a bit of grip here and no shortage of balancing acidity. It's a rosé that doesn't want to be over-chilled, and will match mildly spicy foods as well as salmon or trout. Note that at time of writing, North & South Wines has this on sale by the six-bottle case, bring the per bottle equivalent close to £30.