Borgo Maragliano is a family company based in the Langhe hills of Piedmont. Langhe is home to the great red wines of Barolo and Barbaresco, but Borgo Maragliano specialise in sparkling wines. The production of sparkling wine in the region is not new; after all, this is also home to the Spumante wines of Asti. But the big departure of the last few decades is for a small band of winemakers to champion Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and to make these by the traditional method with long secondary fermentation in bottle. In 2011, the Alta Langa DOCG was established, specifically for such wines.
Borgo Maragliano farm both Champenoise varieties, as well as Riesling, Moscato and Brachetto. Fifth generation winemaker Carlo and his wife Silvia run the estate with their parents and children, producing a range of excellent wines that are worthy of attention. The wines are mostly named after a member of the Galliano family.
The vineyards and winery sit in a stunning hillside position, vineyards running to 620 metres altitude. This, says winemaker Carlo, is key to their wines maintaining such refreshing natural acidity. Even though temperature may peak around 38° or 39° centigrade in the height of summer, mornings still begin with only 6° or 7° degrees. This diurnal shift is key to the retention of acidity.
The vineyards are well-established, planted between 35 and 65 years ago. Soils are sandy with tufa and limestone, but no clay. Carlo describes the soils as ‘meagre’, but free-draining. This part of Piedmont is still very much Moscato country, and indeed it is an important grape for Maragliano. Their first Pinot and Chardonnay vineyards were planted by Carlo and his father back in 1983. Dr. Corino, head of the Experimental Institute for Viticulture of Asti, had suggested the varieties could be ideal to make a traditional method sparkling wine in the area. Carlo and his father “took up this challenge with great enthusiasm and determination.”
Carlo thinks the Prosecco explosion has been a good thing in terms of opening the world’s markets for all Italian sparkling wines. He sees “great interest,” in quality traditional method wines from Piedmont and elsewhere in Italy, that door perhaps nudged open by Prosecco.
The Wines
(2023) From one of the highest vineyards at 540 metres above sea level, 100% Riesling that spends 24 months on the lees. It is Brut Nature, with minimal dosage, and has telltale notes of candle wax and herbs, a lightly buttery background. Lots of sheer, lean, mouth-watering citrus, staying focused and tight into the finish.
(2023) A Brut Chardonnay from volcanic and sandstone soils with a little limestone that rests on lees for 32 months. Lively in the glass, the aromas suggest a lightly honeyed, nutty then stone fruit character with a zesty brightness. Dry and elegant on the palate, its mostly about that lemony fruit and the wine stays precise to the finish with a hint of stony minerals perhaps.
(2023) 100% Pinot Nero from vineyards at 410 metres, this spends three years on the lees. Lots of toasty brioche, spnething that reminds me of fairground toffee apples. The palate feels just a touch astringent; the acid a little too pithy for its own good perhaps, but that doesn't detract too much from a salt-licked, bracing wine with some mid-palate texture and ripeness.
(2023) This Pinot dominated blend (80%) with Chardonnay was one of my favourites, four years on the lees enriching the extremely low dosage wine with autolytic biscuit and brioche, and very sparky lemon fruit on the nose. The palate is clean lean, without being harsh; just a poised, elegant wine with good length and balance, the freshness and appetising character never in doubt.
(2023) This is 100% Chardonnay from vineyards at 410 metres above sea level, the soils are composed of volcanic rock and sand. It blends young wine with substantial reserve wine and spends 36 months on the lees. ravishing nose, with lots of yeasty autolysis and biscuit, quite an intense lime character and a streak of something herbal too. The mousse is fresh and has a certain crispness, supporting bright citrus, staying very cool and focused through to the finish, but not at all mean: there's an underlying sense of richness from that long lees ageing and the reserve wines that adds breadth to the finish too.
(2023) 100% Pinot Noir. Carlo says his valley always gives very aromatic Pinot, in both dry and sparkling wines - even the freshly picked grapes have pronounced strawberry and red fruit aromas. This coppery-pink wine certainly has some strawberry on the nose, also a touch of truffly smokiness, a hint of white pepper too. It is indeed aromatic. The wine is Brut, but in the mouth has a dry, small redcurrant fruit character, a little custardy richness, but the acid here from vineyards at over 400 metres is key. Flavourful rosé, and precise.
