A few years ago I was introduced to the wines of Cantina Tramin, which hugely impressed, so it was great to have the opprtunity for this catch-up. Based in Alto Adige in the Alpine north of Italy, the Cantina is a very progressive cooperative cellar founded in 1898.
The ‘Selection’ wines largely featured here are entirely focused on quality, and come from the best vineyard sites of their 160 member families. Unurprisingly, the Gewürztraminer variety features prominently in their portfolio, as do other aromatic white varieties like Riesling and Pinot Bianco, as well as French varieties Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. For red wines the Cantina has invested heavily in refining the best sites for Pinot Noir, while the local Lagrein also features prominently. This tasting was confined to white wines.
The village of Tramin lies 100 miles north of Verona in the heart of the Italian Alps. The Cantina’s vineyards run between 250 and 850m above sea level, with soils that span clay, gravel and, importantly, limestone which contributes particularly to richer Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio. It is the higher elevations where Gewürztraminer thrives.
Cantina Tramin really is a benchmark producer, especially with the Selection bottlings, each of which is of superb quality. Tasted here, the 2016 vintage of their Nussbaumer Gewürztraminer also shows the capacity these concentrated, multi-layered wines have for extended cellaring.
The Wines
(2024) From the 'classic' range, vineyards on calcareous clay and gravelly soils lie at an altitude between 250 and 400 metres. It's a deliciously dry and relatively full-bodied wine, honeysuckle-touched aromas of citrus and poached pear combine. In the mouth it is textured and rounded, more pear and a hint of lush peachiness, but then a strict and quite mineral acid drives through to give freshness and real sippability.
(2024) From vines at 400 to 600 metres altitude, this was partly fermented in large oak casks, and partly in smaller barrels. It was matured in large French oak casks. Surprisingly aromatic, a sheen of almond over nectarine and lime, a smoke, cracked river stone background. Just off-dry, this is very much more Alsace Pinot Gris than Pinot Grigio, rich and full, luscious mango to nectarine, with a rasp of grapefruit and lemon acidity to give balance and definition.
(2024) I haven't tasted the Stoan blend since the 2018 vintage, but this 2022 is just as impressive. It's a blend of more than 60% Chardonnay, with Sauvignon Blanc, Gewürztraminer and Pinot Bianco. It has such a charming nose, of chalk and talcum, Spring flowers and elegant, juicy citrus and pineapple. As with many of the Cantina's wines, it has weight and texture but is somehow also nimble and pretty, the palate filled with fruit but also a spice and grip of acid and a hint of extract that adds a textural edge. Delightful.
(2024) From vineyards at 350 to 550 metres above sea level. After a short maceration, fermentation in small stainless steel tanks and then ageing with lees stirring for a total maturation period of 15 months. Beautifully clear, classic and inviting Gewurz aromas showing lychee, herbs and Turkish delight. The palate is so oily and textured, and the spicy flavours definitely flit with sweetness, a rich and rolling palate that's full of interest, the slightly phenolic grip of skin contact adds a touch of abrasive grip to the opulent flavours. Very lovely.
(2024) Great to have a chance to taste this eight-year-old vintage of Cantina Tramin's Nussbaumer, made from selected vineyard parcels of Gewürztraminer. It is made from vines that are 40 years old, and aged on the lees in stainless steel. Intense leafy and floral notes almost like geranium leaf, with some Nivea cream and lychee. Luscious, weighty and off-dry, it fills the mouth with creamy texture, spice and tropical fruit married to a pithy, bracing acid note in the finish. Note price and stockist is for the most recent vintage at time of review.
(2024) This beautifully pitched high altitude Chardonnay carries its oak (11 months in Bordeaux barriques) more lightly than the previously tasted 2017, and is all the better for it. In fact it is both elegant and generous on the nose, nutty almond notes merging with custard apple and lime rind. In the mouth it is concentrated, intense, with a rich and mouth-filling texture, but crucially it is juicy, fresh and mouthwatering too, that orange and lime, more lush take on citrus, powers through against that creamy and nutty background.
