Colli Berici Calling

The Consorzio Colli Berici e Vicenza is a body created in 2011 by the merging of two existing Consorzi: one for the wines of the Colli Berici DOC, and one for the wines of Vicenza DOC, twin appellations of the Veneto in northeast Italy. Consorzi exist for most of Italy’s DOC’s for the purpose of protecting and enhancing the regions’ wines.

Vicenza

Map of VicenzaVicenza is a city and the name of its surrounding Province in the Veneto. Mid-way between the cities of Verona and Venice, the rolling countryside is dotted with grand Palladian villas.

Vicenza is also a large wine producing DOC. Though much larger than the Colli Berici DOC, which sits within its boundaries, it produces only around one-third of the wine output. Vicenza DOC is much more white wine country (63% of plantings), and thus complements the red wine-dominant Colli Berici. Garganega and Pinot Grigio are the most planted varieties.

Colli Berici DOC

The Berici colli, or hills, is an undulating landscape to the south of Vicenza where soils are chalky with marine fossils over red clays. Volcanic cones have created areas of basaltic terrain. The climate is sunny and warm, and DOC rules mean vineyards are not planted on the peaty soils of the valley floor, but on slopes, particular those that face south and southeast. A wide variety of wine styles can be produced in these conditions, from Cabernet Sauvignon to Pinot Noir.

Red wine varieties cover 67% of the vineyard area. These include the Tai Rosso, an indigenous variety that shows similarities to Grenache and is currently something of a focus as a local hero grape. Tai Rosso constitutes around 11% of plantings.

Three bottlesAnother point of interest is the significant proportion of vineyards planted to Carmenère – indeed, well-known producer Inama has the largest Carmenère vineyard in Europe.

I tasted six red examples below, but white, sparkling and sweet passito wines are also produced. The white Tai Bianco is grown, but the biggest plantings are Garganega along with international varieties, particularly Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc.

President of the Conzorzio, Silvio Dani, says that the defining feature of wines from the Colli Berici is ‘sapidity’, a certain saline character. Indeed this was evident in some of the examples tasted here.

The Wines

(2024) Seeing no oak, but matured six months in tank before bottling, this wine is fermented with natural yeasts. The wine has a bright and vibrant, light cherry colour. It is fragrant, with a bon-bon character, rose-hip and more cherry-like aromas.  Sweet-fruited and nimble on the palate, there's some herbal nuancs and the gentle tannins and pert acidity make this enjoyable and easy to drink. No UK retail stockists at time of review.
(2024) From iron-rich clay and limestone soils, this is 100% Tai Rosso from 18-year-old vineyards. The wine is matured for six months in 3rd use, 228 litre French oak barrels. Colour a little deeper than the Pegoraro, the aromas more subdued, showing a gently meaty plum and blackberry, but a little floral edge does show through. The palate appears to be much drier despite a touch (3.2g/l) of residual sugar, but the sandy tannins, background cedary oak and good acidity all combine to give a dry, savoury character. No UK retail stockists at time of review.
(2024) Made by the Cielo e Terra estate from fruit from partners from across Colli Berici. A blend of Merlot, Cabernet and Tai Rosso, partially dried to concentrate flavour, sugar and tannins. It spends one year in French oak barrels and a further year in vats before bottling with 4g/l of residual sugar. Quite a soft, mulberry colour, the nose deep and plummy, tobacco spices and some prune-like fruit character. In the mouth the hint of sweetness is there, but the wine is savoury with plummy-dark fruit, a base of charry spices and overall, a fairly soft tannin and acid base.
(2024) This is 100% Merlot from 31-year-old vines grown on clay, with medium-high limestone content. Vineyards face south/south-east at 150 metres. It matures for 18 months in oak barrels from Allier, Never, Limousin and Tronçais. Deep, saturated colour, the nose overflows with black berry fruit, spiced and peppery with some floral nuances. Very fragrant oak quality. Full, sweet-fruited and rich on the palate, there's a deep layer of black fruit, but some raspberry tartness to the fruit and acid alos adds interest. The creamy, coffeeish oak and supple, fine tannins make for a velvetty, hedonistic style. No UK retail stockists listed at time of review.
(2024) A blend of 30% Cabernet Franc from 32-year-old vines and 70% Cabernet Sauvignon from 13-year-old vines. It is aged 12-months in medium-toast, Alliers oak barriques and larger barrels. A ruby to purple colour, this opens with very fine, classic Bordelais character. There's some light and shade with more than a hint of raspberry and leafiness, then cassis and some cedary depth. In the mouth it is glossy, ripe and touched with mocha and cocoa, the fruit sweet and still those little lifted characters giving lovely freshness and definition. No UK retail stockists listed at time of review.
(2024) Inama is a well-known name for Soave, but here we have 100% Carmenère grown onhigher, south/south-east slopes of iron-rich clay over limestone. It was matured in 35% new French oak barriques, plus second use barrels, for 12 months. It spends around 30 months in total being matured, before being released onto the market. There's a plush and sophisticated feel to this wine immediately, notes of violet and cassis over cedar with some tapenade notes. Velvety and smooth on the palate, the creamy black fruit is firmed by dusty tannins, and perfectly pitched saline acidity. Coffee and chocolate bottom notes complete a convincing picture.

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