Coonawarra and Cabernet Sauvignon are synonymous for fans of Australian wine. In fact, 36% of the region’s vineyards are planted to other varieties (Shiraz, plus complementary Bordeaux varieties dominate), but it is Cabernet Sauvignon planted on the region’s iconic ‘terra rossa’ soils that have stamped Coonawarra as one of the world’s prime red wine regions.
Sitting on a base of limestone, the prized terra rossa is a layer of ancient, wind-blown silt that created a clay rich in iron and silica. In time that oxidised – rusted – into rich, red-coloured soil. In the late 1800s this fertile, free-draining land was divided into parcels that attracted settlers, most of whom farmed vines and other fruits. John Riddoch was instrumental in developing the fledgling wine industry, his first vintage made in 1895.
Coonawarra Conditions
In a country where the dangers of excessive heat and drought lurk from vintage to vintage, Coonawarra is relatively cool, and relatively self-sufficient in water due to underground aquifers. Ocean currents from the Antartic, known as the ‘Bonney upwelling’, blow significantly cooler air across vineyards that are some of the most southerly of South Australia’s wine regions. The season is long, and conditions mean yields are naturally moderate.
This tasting of six wines spanned vintages from 2019 to 2021, a trio that produced excellent overall quality. 2019 was ‘the perfect’ vintage with no real problems, and though 2020 was cooler in Spring with a smaller crop, growing conditions were ideal. 2021 was slightly warmer and drier again, and shaped up to be an outstanding vintage.
The Tasting
The majority of Coonawarra’s 40 wineries and vineyards are grouped into the long finger of terra rossa, which is two kilometres wide and runs for 27 kilometres north to south.
The six producers represented here all have vineyards on terra rossa. These are mainly family firms, some dating back 100 years or more. Though no longer in family hands, the tasting also included a wine from the Riddoch estate, still offering a direct connection to those pioneering days of John Riddoch, 130 years ago.
The Wines
(2023) From two vineyards planted in 1973 and 1990 respectively on terrarossa. A little Petit Verdot (4.8%) was blended "to add aromatic lift." It spent eighteen months in French oak, 52% of which was new. Very appealing nose, expressing the fragrant side of Cabernet (and that Petit Verdot) with a herb-touched, glossy cherry character as well as blackcurrant. In the mouth the tannins are powerful, and the charry toast of the oak adds another bass note, but the firm black fruit and very crisply framed acidity maintains a strict, fresh line to the finish.
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(2023) A mixture of vineyards here, aged 18 to 40 years, and a mix of clones. The oldest blocks of fruit were fermented directly in oak barrels, other blacks transferred to oak after malolactic fermentation. Barrels came from both Bordeaux and Burgundy coopers, 47% new. Darkly hued, there's concentrated cassis and ripe black plum here, mint and cocoa in support. The palate here flows beautifully with ripe and juicy blackcurrant fruit, but the integration of the tannins and acids here, and indeed the creamy dark tones of the barrel, is excellent. That gives this a seamless character as it flows towards the finish. Highly drinkable.
(2023) This 35-year-old vineyard is planted on terrarossa, and after extended cold maceration was matured in French oak. Winemaker Ben Wurst believes that the long skin maceration gives length in the finished wine. Quite a bright, glossy and fresh fruit character on the nose, a little background herbaceous note adding freshness. Balanced and medium-bodied, the palate follows the same line, fruit the driving force here, pretty and juicy, pert acidity and tight tannins creating a wine that seems to defy its 14.5% alcohol. No UK retail stockists at time of review. Again, already very drinkable.
(2023) These terrarossa vineyards are 20 years old on average, the fruit fermented in stainless steel-lines concrete tanks. Red liquorice springs to mind on first nosing the glass, maybe even a touch of beetrooty character, but pure black fruits show through, touched with mint. The palate has a sinewy, taut character, no flab here at all with tight tannins, juicy and intense acids and the fruit staying in a dry, savoury spectrum. Note stockist and price given is for the 2019 vintage at time of review (which I recently scored 92/100).
(2023) A 35-year-old, ungrafted vineyard on terrarossa is the source of this wine. After fermentation it spent 12 months in French oak hogsheads, 30% of which were new. A true 'multi award-winning' wine that scooped Golds and trophies in several international competitions. Probably the darkest nose of the tasting, a chocolate depth to ripe cassis, though arguably not as nuanced as some. The palate is glorious however. There's weight and substance here, texturally the biggest wine of the selection, but the fruit is sauve and polished, filling the mouth impressively. Tannins are very tight and the bittersweet, endive like bite of the acidity along with the charry, cocoa notes of the barrels flesh out the finish. No UK retail stockist listed at time of review. The wine is imported into the UK by Bancroft Wines and has an RRP of £50.
Hi Tom, I promise you it’s not always that cool here. I remember years back doing some wine tasting on a 45C day, which lasted for about two wineries until we found a beer festival in Naracoorte in an air conditioned tent!! A couple of other visits after that however were much more sensible weatherwise
I am sure that’s true Dave! ‘Cool’ is a relative term in South Australia 🙂