Rías Baixas is the northerly, Atlantic-influenced region in Galicia, northwest Spain, that has risen to great popularity over recent decades. Though it is a singular region, making only white wines almost exclusively from the Albariño grape variety, there are regional variations of climate and soil that this tasting of six wines explored.
The region divides into five sub-zones. Ribeira do Ulla is the furthest north. Registered only in 2000, it is not yet a significant producer. The tiny Soutomaior sits on the coast with sandy soils and again, its production is not significant in the overall picture. The three remaining sub-zones account for 93% of all Rías Baixas wines:
VAL DO SALNES
The oldest sub-zone, with more wineries and vines than the others, Salnes accounts for 60% of Rías Baixas’ vineyard area. It is the coolest and wettest of the sub-zones, its proximity to the ocean giving the wines a saline character. Average high temperature in June is 22.5°C.
CONDADO DO TEA
Crossed by the River Tea, this is the second largest zone and the warmest and driest with an average high temperature in June of 24.4°C. Condado de Tea has 20% of the vineyard area.
O ROSAL
Lying along the river Miño, many vineyards are terraced on its banks. Unlike most of Rías Baixas where granite soils dominate, schist stretches over O Rosal. Wines are said to be softer in style and Loureiro and Caiño Blanco can be blended with Albariño. Average high temperature in June is 23.3°C. O Rosal has 13% of the vineyard area.
Divide and Conquer?
Some producers of Rías Baixas are now beginning to talk more about their sub-zone, encouraging consumers to recognise the subtle differences geography and climate can make. It’s a natural evolution for any wine region – think Burgundy for example. I suspect that few Albariño drinkers will be ready to delve into Rías Baixas to this depth at this point in the region’s evolution, but it was interesting to have the opportunity to taste six wines – two each from the main sub-zones – for this article.
Val do Salnes
(2024) A particularly pure and elegant Albariño from Salnés, the oldest sub-zone of Rías Baixas that is also its coolest and wettest. From family vineyards, there's a cool and clear line of crisp orchard fruit on the nose, quite stony and mineral. In the mouth there's a pleasing juiciness, a squirt of orange and lime, a bit of creaminess to the texture before a fine and fresh finish.
(2024) From various plots in Salnes, some vines 100 years old, this was fermented under controlled temperature using indigenous yeasts. It's a wine that at first seemed underpowered to me, but it's definite edge of salinity to crisp, lemony fruit was good and it grew on me as I tasted. There's a pithiness and saltiness, light bodied and very dry, all about citrus and apple cores. It's a delicate wine and very composed and restrained, but has vivid clarity too.
Condado do Tea
(2024) From the sub-region of Condado de Tea, this very pure and intense Rías Baixas opens with succulent pear and lemon rind, but added complexity comes from small floral and saline nuances that emerge. The palate has a much fuller texture than some, quite luxurious in effect with sweet peach juice and fat, limey flavours. That hint of salt and a touch of spice keeps the wine balanced and long. Watch my
video review for more information. £15.25 when bought by the case.
(2024) A slightly firmer style in this lees-aged wine, the nose hinting at passion fruit and lime peel, a ripe peachiness beneath, fermentation with wild yeast adding a savoury note. On the palate that concentrated, zesty concentration drives this, a pithy lemon grapefruit towards the finish making it gastronomic and dry, with good, precise length.
O Rosal
(2024) í
From the sub-zone O Rosal, this has a skin-contact suggestion of lime peel and peach skins, again a nice suggestion of saltiness in a leaner picture than the Torre la Moreira for example. A little bit leesy, the palate is driven by lemony, zesty fruit, the spark of sherbetty, salty acid nicely balancing the finish.
(2024) Gently pressed at low pressure, this was fermented in stainless steel and aged on the lees for six months. I believe there are small amounts of both Caíño and Loureira in the blend. A lightly honeyed, lightly tropical aroma, overlaid with fragrant jasmine and a little almondy softness. In the mouth this has plenty of fruit-driven personality, with quite a firm peach and herb combination and plenty of zippy citrus. A little less sea breezy than the Salnes wines perhaps, but still fresh as a daisy.
Reds are also allowed in the Rías Baixas denominación. Admittedly there aren’t too many, but they are most definitely on the increase. Usually a blend almost including Caiño Tinto and often Espadeiro, though sometimes varietal Caiño. Albariño main man Eulógio Pomares is particularly keen on his work with reds.
Many thanks for the added inf Mark