This tasting, organised by the German wine industry, was clearly intended to show the diversity of the German wine scene – the ‘new’ Germany. Yes, there were two Rieslings in the line-up, but those consisted of one in the fashionable Trocken (dry) style, and a Sekt which was Extra Brut – again, drier than is traditional. The other four wines were less familiar within the German repertoire: a Sauvignon Blanc, a Pinot Noir, a Pinot Blanc and a rosé made from the Trollinger and Lemberger varieties.
The slopes of the Mosel and Rhine are some of the world’s most celebrated terroirs and the tasting included wines from both. But other, less well-known regions lying further south were represented too. The Pfalz has developed an excellent reputation for slightly richer styles of both white and red wines, while further south again, there were wines from Württemberg and from Baden, the latter bordering the Alsace region of France.
One topic covered was the rise of estates that are farmed under organic or biodynamic regimes, many certified as such. Three of the six wines here were farmed organically, but in total around 12,500 hectares of vineyards are cultivated organically today, a five-fold increase since 2004. That constitutes around 12% of the total vineyard area. Over 1,000 hectares are also certified biodynamic.
This tasting demonstrated the diversity that exists, especially in more southerly regions. It’s possible too that climate change is allowing Germany to produce a broader palette of wine styles. The worry must be for the fresh, decidedly cool-climate and ravishing Rieslings of the Mosel and Rhine, and whether climate change may affect those in the long run. But for now, it’s time to celebrate diversity.
(2023) From the Rheingau, this is Extra Brut so has less than 6g/l of residual sugar. It's a traditional method wine, aged 48 months on the lees and comes from a vineyard on chalky soils dedicated to Riesling. Custardy, creamy aromas initially, with the waxiness and lime of Riesling very apparent. Though technically quite dry, the impression on the palate, with its creamy mousse, has a sweetness. Lovely balance, mouth-filling, hints of tropical fruit and zipping acidity. Very enjoyable.
(2023) Grown organically, this is a dry wine from the Saar region of the Mosel Valley. The nose is citrus and apples, but the slaty and slightly waxy character of the Riesling does come through. On the palate there is a hint of sweetness here with around 7g/l of residual sugar, but it is noticeably drier than many consumers might expect. It has a slightly fatter texture too, and a core of pure, sheer citrus that propels the finish.
(2023) Another organic wine, this from Rheinhessen and the village of Ober-Flörsheim. Fermentation is spontaneous with ambient yeasts, 90% in stainless steel and 10% in French oak. Just a touch of residual sugar here at 4.9g/l. Pale green in colour, soft, ripe, apple and ogen melon aromas are smoothed even more by a touch of custard and almond. In the mouth the sweetness combines with ripe fruit to make this mouth-filling, and quite weighty with the creaminess of the oak. The acidity sparks into life, nicely balancing the hint of sweetness. I guess you could say it's in a broadly Alsace style, and is quite delicious. Quite a few independent merchants have this - use the wine-searcher link. Watch the video for more information.
(2023) Emil Bauer is a fifth generation family company, doing things a bit differently in the Pfalz, and making Sauvignon Blanc something of a speciality. Plenty of gooseberry and elderflower varietal typicity here, the aromas vibrant and fresh. In the mouth a little touch of residual sugar gives this just a touch of 'sweet and sour' character as it butts against very lemony acidity. There is grassiness and a hint of the tropical to the mid-palate, nectarine fruit. It's a solid commercial style that most Kiwi Savvy drinkers would recognise, but to that end, doesn't specifically scream 'Germany'.
(2023) From Württemberg in the south of the country, a blend of the local speciality grape of Italian/German heritage called Trollinger, and Lemberger, a synonym of Blaufränkisch. It is made in a very fashionably pale style, and aromatically it is gentle and perfumed, a little floral, red apple and redcurrant fruit. In the mouth a touch of sugar gives this softness and easy approachability, but I like the fact that the freshness and sense of precision and delicacy is maintained into a crisp, lemon zest finish. No UK retail stockists listed at time of review.
(2023) Lovely pale and semi-transparent colour to this organic-certified wine. Delightfully fragrant nose, a meadow full of delicate spring flowers and elegant cherry fruit underpinned by a little exotic spice. The oak is of good, fragrant, rather than over-powering quality. In the mouth that very caressing and gentle picture continues, the fruit crisp and in the red fruit spectrum, the tannins mellow but present, and the acid clearly defining the long finish where once again oak supports but does not dominate.
The slopes of the Mosel and Rhine are some of the world’s most celebrated terroirs and the tasting included wines from both. But other, less well-known regions lying further south were represented too. The Pfalz has developed an excellent reputation for slightly richer styles of both white and red wines, while further south again, there were wines from Württemberg and from Baden, the latter bordering the Alsace region of France.