For British wine lovers the wines of Bodega Juan Gil in Jumilla are probably the most familiar of the Gil family’s estates. Jumilla may be home, but the family operates 11 bodegas spread across 10 Spanish regions from Rías Baixas to Priorat. A total of 1,766 hectares of vineyards is owned or managed under the control of the fourth generation, brothers Miguel and Ángel. Though not all estates are distributed in the UK at the moment, this online tasting with Paco Gil introduced the estate and six wines from the extended portfolio.
Founded in 1916, the first generations of the family were grape growers and bulk wine suppliers, so the move to produce estate wines has been relatively recent.
So too is a big focus on sustainability and the environment. Farming mainly old, dry-farmed bush vines – their oldest being almost 130 years old – today 77% of vineyards are grown organically with some labels certified organic. Three wineries in the group are ‘off the grid’, producing more energy from solar power than they consume. In addition, measures have been taken to minimise water use in the vineyards and in the wineries, and all entry level wines are packaged in lightweight bottles.
The 21st century has seen big investments in winemaking with optical sorters that allow them to grade grapes quickly and efficiently. Another initiative is work with local universities to develop yeasts that are native to the vineyard and region. Paco says “we are not interested in yeasts that create other aromas or flavours.”
White Wines
(2024) From the coastal Salnés valley in Galicia, a cool area. Only Albariño is grown, all on pergola, and the wine is made in a combination of stainless steel and 500 and 600-litre French oak barrels. Wines from Salnes almost always show some saline, seaspray character and that's the situation here, against lemon rind and dry, apple core notes. In the mouth there is some breadth, some fruit brightness on the mid-palate hinting a honeyed quality, but it's that saline and light bready character that pushes through. Note price and stockist are for the previous vintage at time of review.
(2024) Jumilla is a very dry region, in 2022 the first rain of the year did not fall until May. That, together with these chalky soils, rather suits the Muscat variety. This has typically floral and flamboyant aromatics with a hint of geranium leaf. Nice texture in the mouth, aided by small amount of the blend aged in old oak and concrete eggs. Plenty of juicy stone fruits, but tempered by citrus. It's a dry wine, clean, mineral, the finish tangy and well balanced. A dry Muscat with character.
Red Wines
(2024) From a small parcel of vines that range in age from 40 to 90 years, sited in Rioja Alavesa. All are dry-farmed bush vines planted on limestone and clay. It spends 10 months in French oak. In a heavyweight bottle, this deeply-coloured wine has notes of vanilla and clove over ripe blackcurrant and damson plum. Some cedar and tobacco adds finesse. In the mouth the black fruit is dense and chocolaty. Tannins are ripe and creamy but add a definite grip, the oak tannins adding charry darkness, and the black cherry acidity well-balanced. It's a serious and ambitious style this, which would have good cellaring potential. Not in the UK at time of writing.
(2024) The soils here in Monsant, next door to Priorat, vary from sand to limestone to slate to clay. This comes mostly from slate soils at 200 metres altitude, blending Grenache, Carignan and Syrah. Deep crimson in colour, the nose has an intriguing suggestion of nutmeg and exotic spices over intense blueberry fruit. There's a certain dustiness too, perhaps from its 12 months in French oak. A lovely smooth, creamy black fruit juiciness to this on the palate, the tannins meaty but still elegant and the acidity gentle, just a little spice adding some extra punch. No UK retail stockists listed at time of review.
(2024) This is the 'Silver Label' bottling, priced above the regular yellow and below the blue label versions. The Monastrell used in the production of this organic certified wine come from 50- to 60-year-old vines on chalky and rocky limestone soils. It spends 12 months maturing in French oak barrels. Deep and ripe red fruits, hints of leather and tobacco spice, a certain sense of dusty heat on the nose but also a garrigue-like floral and herbal background. The fruit is sweet, plush and mouth-filling, a bittersweet liquorice and endive bite, keen tannins and the smoothing background of the barrel. A big mouthful of wine this.
(2024) Intended as a wine with ageing potential, this is a blend of 30-year-old Cabernet Sauvignon and 75- to 95-year-old Monastrell, farmed organically and made in collaboration with New Zealand winemaker Chris Ringland. It is aged 22 months in barrels, mostly French with some American oak. Balsamic, fudge-like and vanilla-laden, there's such a depth of cassis and glossy black cherry. The nose suggests a sumptuous palate and that is precisely what's delivered: liquidised plums, blackcurrants and spices layered with 90% cocoa black chocolate, the texture so creamy. Hedonism written unapologetically large, and quite something.
