July 2017s wines of the month

Wines of the Month July 2017

Under £10

(2017) Another pale wine in the Provençal idiom. this comes from the Languedoc and blends two local grapes to excellent effect. Delicately touched by pink grapefruit, redcurrant and raspberry on the nose, the creamy but light-bodied palate shows more delicate fruit - wild strawberries and raspberries - but a lovely freshness to the acidity to give it a shimmering, lacework finish.

Under £15

(2017) I have a tendency to bang on about the 'new' Chardonnay from Australia and California, on a mission to persuade members of the ABC Club to reconsider their membership given the volte-face that has transformed the big, blowsy, over-oaked examples of the 1990s into altogether more subtle wines that show the variety's true class. Gary and Kathy Jordan's wines have always been more intelligently pitched however, and this sleek Chardonnay with its confident but balanced nuttiness and hint of toast from its barrel fermentation is more than matched by pristine fruit, juicy and fleshy enough, before a lick of salinity and shimmering lemon acidity grabs the long, elegant finish. A terrific price for such a classy wine. Watch the video for more information.

Under £25

(2017) From the long-established négociant house of Chanson, this is an impressive Chablis, showing much more of the flint and minerality one might hope for on the nose compared to some Chablis at this price, and with an intensity to the palate, the fruit showing even a hint of tropical ripeness, but all constrained and restrained by its acidity, sharp lemony focus and sweeping acidity. Rather a good wine this from head winemaker Jean-Pierre Confuron, and the purchase of Chanson by the Bollinger family seems to be stepping up quality impressively.

Sky’s the Limit

(2017) The waft of rosy red apples was unmissable on opening this Grand Cru, all Pinot Noir Blanc de Noirs. It is made from 40-year-old vines in Verzenay, and bottled with 8g/l dosage. The colour is a pale gold, and that distinctive red apple character is joined by gentle pastry notes, a yeasty, lightly earthy autolysis adding depth. It strikes the palate with real authority: considerable fruit sweetness, apple again, succulent pear, but a real intensity and concentration of old vine fruit, dazzling citrus acidity and a lick of salt giving great clarity and extending the finish. Terrific.

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