It’s a catchy name for a small group of wineries in France. The group has been created by Languedoc-based winemaker and négociant, Pierre Bories. It encompasses wines from his own four estates, plus others made as part of his négociant activity.
His own estates (Château Ollieux Romanis, Domaine Pierre Bories, Domaine Le Champ des Murailles and Château Rives-Blanques) are all certified organic, and are in the process of being converted to biodynamic viticulture. Eighty percent of the fruit processed as a négociant is also certified organic, the remaining 20% they say “is just a matter of time.”
Back to Nature
That terroir and organics philosophy – back to the nature and the land – appears to be the driving force of Artisans Partisans. Pierre Bories has also been moving his vineyards away from monoculture to encourage biodiversity. That has included planting trees and hedges, maintaining a flock of sheep in the vineyards and adopting a philosophy of ‘agropastoralism’, preparing new citrus, olive and wheat plantations within the estates.
They describe their way of working as “a virtuous circle,” that reaps its own rewards. Those rewards include “to live and work in a healthy environment,” and that they are “continually working to beautify our landscape.”
The results of this must be seen in the bottle of course, and the six wines I tasted certainly impressed at very modest prices. Generally moderate in alcohol and not encumbered by too much oak, they are also widely available through UK retailers including The Wine Society and Tanners. It seems like a worthwhile attempt to care for the environment whilst making honest and high quality wines.
White Wines
(2024) This Vin de France wine comes from vineyards on red clay soils, is certified organic, and made with minimal sulphur. Trendily capped with a wax seal over the DIAM cork, it is fresh with bright apple and lemon and a hint of stomething stony - almost Chablis-like. In the mouth there is ripeness to the fruit, but the featherweight 11% alcohol and crisp acid structure gives it a light and flowing, seafood-friendly style.
(2024) Though Limoux is best known for its Chardonnay, and in particular, sparkling Blanquette de Limoux wines, there's an ever expanding vineyard area being planted to Chenin Blanc, particularly on the higher, stony slopes. This comes from some of the oldest Chenin vineyards of the region, planted at 350 - 380 metres and certified organic. It is fermented and aged in older oak barrels with only occasional batonnage. The nose has that wax and lanolin hint that sometimes marks this variety, firm yellow apple fruit, but a surprising sense of taut minerality too. Beautifully sweet but pin-point fruit on the palate, with such great precision to the acidity. This feels concentrated and powerful, the barrel component adding a whisper of creamy and buttery oak texture, and yet with 12.5% alcohol and that cool precision it is utterly fresh and appetisingly zippy. Watch the
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(2024) An organic Chardonnay in the Artisans Partisans range, from Limoux in the Languedoc. Limoux often offers great value alternatives to the white wines of Burgundy, especially when fermented and matured in French oak as is this example. Vines are 26 to 46 years old, grown at 350 metres altitude. Orange, almond and crushed oatmeal aromas, lemon balm too, in a subtle but creamy style. The sweet ripeness of fruit striking the palate takes one by surprise, then the nuttiness of the oak and richness of texture bolsters the hedonistic character. Acidity and spices refresh the finish nicely.
(2024) From the Artisans Partisans range, this is mainly Roussanne (75%) with Marsanne and Grenache Blanc from clay and limestone soils, aged in barrel on the lees for about nine months. With only 12.5% I suspect this was picked early, though it shows a gloriously ripe and lifted nose, the fragrant, nutty quality of the oak and the spearmint and floral nuances to the apricot and exotic fruit. The palate has a beautiful balance of sweetness, spice and juiciness, long and really very light on its feet, shimmering into the finish. Unfortunately this vintage may now be sold out.
Red Wines
(2024) One hundred percent Cinsault from red sandstone soils, this organic certified wine come from 10-year-old vines. It is made with indigenous yeasts and no added sulphur, and does not see oak. Luminous cherry/magenta in colour, this is buoyant stuff, reminiscent of Beaujolais perhaps with some floral and rose notes over cherry and watercolour paintbox aromas. Beautifully bright and fresh fruit, overflowing with vivid cherry and juicy plum, a nice depth of tannin and refreshing core of acidity to balance. Delightful little wine.
(2024) This unoaked blend of 50% Carignan, 23% Mourvèdre, 23% Grenache and 4% Syrah comes from 50-year-old vines in Boutenac, one of the prime terroirs of Corbières. It is certified organic. There's an interesting combination of fresh, pomegranate and cherry/floral aromas balanced by a deeper undercurrent of something plummy and black-fruited. In the mouth the flood of abundant sweet, fleshy and ripe black fruit fill the mid-palate, a real hedonistic mouthful of luscious and deep fruit. The tannins here are genuinely soft and silky, with the acid balancing nicely into a gentle, long finish.
